Victorian Material Culture

Tatiana Kontou is Senior Lecturer in Nineteenth-Century Literature, Oxford Brookes University, UK.Kara Tennant teaches Fashion Theory at the University of South Wales, UK

• IntroductionPart 1-Embodying Fashionability1.1 ContextHeadnote 1.11. H. R. H., ‘A Complaint’, The Lady’s Newspaper, 9 January 1847, p. 26.2. Mrs Merrifield, ‘How Far Should the Fashions be Followed?’, The Lady’s Newspaper, 7 July 1855, p. 123. [Anon.], ‘Conduct and Carriage; Or, Rules to Guide a Young Lady on Points of Etiquette and Good Breeding in her Intercourse with the World’, The Ladies’ Treasury, June 1857, pp. 119-20.4. Caroline Stephen, ‘Thoughtfulness in Dress’, The Cornhill Magazine, September 1868, pp. 281- 98.5. [Anon.], ‘A Lady’s Question: What Shall We Wear?’, London Society, May 1869, pp. 410-14.6. E. P. ‘The Tyranny of Fashion’, The Cornhill Magazine, July 1878, pp. 83-94.7. Mrs. H. R Haweis, ‘Importance of Dress’, in The Art of Beauty (New York: Harper & Brothers, Publishers, 1878), pp. 11-18.8. [Anon.], Statement, The Rational Dress Society Gazette, January 1889, p. 1.1.2 Outlines; Contours; Boundaries Shaping the Silhouette: the Corset & the Crinolette Headnote 1.2.19. Anne Roxey Caplin, ’On Gestation’, Health and Beauty; or Woman and her Clothing Considered in Relation to the Physiological Laws of the Human Body, London: Kent and and Co. Paternoster Row, 1864, pp. 99-115.10. Advertisement, ‘The London Corset Company’, Hearth and Home, 27 Dec. 1900, p. 31711. Photograph of Crinolette, Great Britain, ca. 1870 The ‘Grecian Bend’, ‘Little Feet’ and the ‘Alexandra Limp’Headnote 1.2.212. Uncle Grumbler, ‘"The Grecian Bend."’, Sharpe’s London Magazine, January 1869, pp. 110-11. 13. S. L. B., ‘The Lady with the Little Feet’, London Society, June 1869, pp. 494-506. 14. [Anon.], ‘The Grecian Bend’, Punch, 2 October 1869, p. 132.15. [Anon.], ‘General News’, The Glasgow Daily Herald, 25 January 1870, p. 4. 16. [Anon.], ‘Fashion’s Follies’, Fun, 2 April 1870, p. 35.The ‘Dolly Varden’: A Literary FashionHeadnote 1.2.317. Charles Dickens, Barnaby Rudge; A Tale of the Riots of ‘Eighty. London: Chapman and Hall, 1841, pp. 42-3.18. G. W. Hunt, ‘Dolly Varden’ (music title page). Boston: Oliver Ditson & Co.19. The Silkworm, ‘Spinnings in Town’, The Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine, 1 June 1871, pp. 362.20. [Anon.], ‘Dolly Vardens’, Scribner’s Monthly, June 1872, pp. 248-921. [Anon.], ‘Observations on London and Parisian Fashions’, The Ladies’ Monthly Magazine, the World of Fashion, 1 July 1872, p. 1.1.3 CosmeticsHeadnote 1.322. [Anon.], ‘Materials for the Toilette. VIII.’, The Saturday Magazine, 25 January 1840, pp. 27-8. 23. Advertisement for Pears's Rouge & Pearl Powder, The Ladies’ Monthly Magazine, The World of Fashion. A Journal of the Courts of London and Paris, 1 February 1856.24. ‘Rouge’, The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, 1 December 1868, p. 317.25. Charles Reade, Charles, ‘A Simpleton. A Story of the Day’, London Society, December 1872, pp. 495-497. 26. Medicus, ‘The Toilet-Table, and What Should Lie Thereon’, The Girl’s Own Paper, 9 April 1881, pp. 443-4.27. Advertisement for Rice-Powder, Myra's Journal, 1 June 1890, p. 22.28. Advertisement for 'Safe Complexion Lotions', Myra's Journal, 1 Sept 1897, p. 7.1.4 HairHeadnote 1.429. [Anon.], ‘The Honeymoon’, Punch, 22 August 1857, p. 81. 30. M. E. Braddon, Lady Audley’s Secret, Leipzig: Bernhard Tauchniz, 1862, pp. 82-3.31. [Anon.], ‘Insane Female Fashions. Bunches of False Hair Behind’, Dundee Courier, 13 November 1865.32. [Anon.], ‘Chignons Doomed’, The Penny Illustrated Paper, 6 February 1869, p. 91.33. [Anon.], ‘L’EAU DES FEES’, The Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine, January 1873, p. 50.34. Advertisement for Grey Hair in Browne, Montagu, Practical Taxidermy, London: L. Uppcot Gill, 188435. Thomas, Hardy, Jude the Obscure, New York and London: Harper and Brother Publishers, 1895, pp. 63-6436. Advertisement for Unwin & Albert, Ladies Ornamental Hair Workers and Expert Wig Makers, Hearth and Home, vol. 20, no. 498, 29 Nov. 1900, p. 130. Part 2--Dressing Up2.1 Wedding Dress and AccoutrementsHeadnote 2.137. Celata, ‘My Wedding Ring’, Livesey’s Moral Reformer, August 1838, p. 152.38. Elizabeth Henderson, Fashion Plate, ‘Public promenade and bridal dresses’, The Ladies' Cabinet of Fashion, Music and Romance, May 1847.39. [Anon.], ‘Letter From Aunt Lydia About Orange-Blossoms’, The Lady’s Newspaper, 10 May1862, pp. 389-90.40. C. Sears, Lancaster, ‘My Wedding-Bonnet’, Le Follet, September 1863, pp. 65-9.41. Photograph by Julia Margaret Cameron, 'Dora as the Bride' (sitter Annie Chinery Cameron), albumen print, 1869.42. Edward Killingworth Johnson, Drawing depicting a young widow holding her wedding dress. Water-colour and gouache, 1877.43. Alice Maud Meadows, ‘May’s Wedding Dress’, Tinsleys’ Magazine, December 1885, p. 523.44. [Anon.], ‘Modern Weddings’, Le Monde Ēlégant or the World of Fashion, June 1888, p. 81.45. [Anon.] ‘Wedding Costume’, The Ladies' Treasury, 1 July 1892, p. 426.46. [Anon.], ‘The Trousseau of Today’, The Girl’s Own Paper, 7 October 1899, pp. 4-6.47. Dora De Blaquière, ‘The Trousseau of Today. Part II.’, The Girl’s Own Paper, 23 December 1899, pp. 177-81.2.2 Mourning AttireHeadnote 2.248. Helen, ‘Lines on Giving Up Wearing a Locket of Hair’, The World of Fashion, 1 February 1846, p. 33.49. Mourning brooches containing the hair of a deceased relative. 50. Elizabeth Gaskell, Mary Barton: A Tale of Manchester Life ... In Two Volumes ... Third Edition. London: 1849. 51. [Anon.], ‘The Paris and London Fashions’, The Lady's Newspaper & Pictorial Times, 9 Nov. 1850, p. 26052. [Anon.], ‘Conduct and Carriage; Or, Rules to Guide a Young Lady on Points of Etiquette and Good Breeding in her Intercourse with the World’, The Ladies’ Treasury, November 1857, pp. 270.53. [Anon.], ‘Fancy Black.’, Punch, 30 April 1864, p. 175.54. Mary Elizabeth Braddon, ‘Oh, My Cousin, Shallow Hearted!’, in The Doctor’s Wife. 3 vols. [Vol. II]. (London: John Maxwell and Company, 1864), p. 16.55.William Halford & Charles Young, manufacturing jewellers, The jewellers' book of patterns in hair work : containing a great variety of copper-plate engravings of devices and patterns in hair; suitable for mourning jewellery, brooches, rings, guards, alberts, necklets, lockets, bracelets, miniatures, studs, links, earrings, &c, London, 1864, p. 28, 39.56. Photograph by Julia Margaret Cameron, ‘A young woman in mourning dress’, 1868/1872. 57. The Silkworm, ‘Spinnings in Town’, The Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine, November 1871, pp. 298-9. 58. Sylvia, ‘On the Etiquette of Mourning’, How To Dress Well On A Shilling a Day: A Ladies’ Guide to Home Dressmaking and Millinery, London: Ward, Lock, & Tyler, 1876, pp. 87-93.59. [Anon.], ‘Mourning as a Fashion’, The London Reader, 17 February 1877, p. 376.60. E. M. Davy, E. M. ‘A Glove’s Evidence’, The Argosy, February 1885, pp. 156-7.61. [Anon.], ‘Mourning’, Hearth and Home, 18 Aug. 1892, p. 461.62. [Anon.], ‘Fashion in Mourning’, Bow Bells, 30 November 1894, pp. 545-6.2.3 AdornmentsChatelainesHeadnote 2.3.163. ‘The Chatelaine; A Really Useful Present’, Punch, or the London Charivari, 13 Jan. 1849, p. 16.64. ‘Multiple Display Advertisements, ‘ Le Follet, 1 July 1889. 65. Cut-steel chatelaine with attachments, England, circa 1863 – 1885. 66. ‘A Parisian Toilette’, Myra's Journal, 1 July 1895, p. 3.67. [Anon.], ‘"The Return of the Chatelaine" Our Home Circle’, Newcastle Courant, 27 Jan. 1900, p. 5 JewelleryHeadnote 2.3.2 68. [Anon.], ‘A Word or Two About Cameos’ in Cassell’s Household Guide: being a complete encyclopaedia of domestic and social economy and forming a guide to every department of practical life, London: Cassell, Petter, and Galpin, 1869, pp. 123 69. [Anon], ‘Coral Jewellery and Peasant Ornaments’ Morning Post, 27 May 1872, p. 2. 70. George Eliot, Middlemarch, extract from chapter XXII, London: William Blackwood and Sons, 1874. 71. Advertisement, ‘The Beatrice Silver and Gold Jewellery’, Le Follet,1 Oct. 1881. 72. [Anon.], ‘Jewels and How to Wear Them’, Belfast News-Letter, 27 Dec. 1894. 73. [Anon.], ‘The Latest Ideas in Jewellery Seen at Swan and Edgar’s Piccadilly and Regent Street’, Hearth and Home, Nov. 1897, p. 1029Part 3--Animal and Insect Accessories; Home DecorationHeadnote 374. [Anon.], ‘The Best French Kid Gloves’, The Ladies’ Cabinet, January 1857, pp. 32-3.75. William Kidd, ‘The Fairy Bird-Cage’, The National Magazine, February 1857, p. 240. 76. Mrs. Henry [Ellen] Wood, East Lynne, 3 vols [vol. 1] [second edition]. London: Richard Bentley, pp. 91-4.77. Untitled Fashion-Plate, Journal des Demoiselles, August 1864.78. [Anon.], ‘The Fashions’, The Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine, June 1868, pp. 312-14.79. P. L. Simmonds, ‘Art-Inroads on Natural History’, The Art-Journal, November 1872, pp. 271-3. 80. [Anon.], ‘BEETLE-WINGS’ (‘Enquiries:’; Enquiry from ‘ELSIE’), The Treasury of Literature and The Ladies Treasury, 1 September 1874, p. 168, and [Anon.], ‘BEETLE-WINGS (ELSIE)’ (‘Answers to Enquiries’; Response to ‘ELSIE’), 1 October 1874, The Treasury of Literature and The Ladies Treasury, p. 224. 81. [Anon.], ‘The Strange Story of a Sealskin. A Tale of Metempsychosis’, Judy, Or The London Serio-Comic Journal, 24 November 1875, p. 52.82. [Anon.], ‘Living Jewellery’, Funny Folks: A Weekly Budget of Funny Pictures, Funny Notes, Funny Jokes, and Funny Stories, vol. V, no. 223, 8 March 1879, p. 77.83. Montagu Browne, Practical Taxidermy, London: L. Uppcot Gill, 1884, p. 261 and Advertisement.84. Mrs. M. E. Haweis, ‘Smashed Birds’, Belgravia, May 1887, pp. 336-40, 343-44. 85. [Anon.], ‘Christmas & New Year Gifts’, Le Follet, December 1892, p. 10.86. J. H., ‘New Styles in Furs’, Myra's Journal, vol. XXII, no. 11, 1 Nov. 1896, p. 32.87. C. W. Gedney, ‘Victims of Vanity’, The English Illustrated Magazine, August 1899, pp. 417-26.Part 4. HandicraftHeadnote 488. [Anon.], Potichomania; Or, the Art of Imitating Porcelain. London: Hutton & Co., 1850.89. Rebekah Skill, ‘Introduction’ (Extracts), in The Art of Modelling Wax Flowers, Fully And Clearly Explained, Accompanied with Accurate Patterns for Various Flowers, Decorations for Tinting, &c., By Which The Attainment Of This Elegant Art Becomes Simple and Easy (London: Simpkin, Marshall, and Co. 1852), pp. 9-19.90. [Anon.], ‘Curiosities of Industry Among the Ladies’, Chambers’s Journal, 7 April 1855, pp. 209-12. 91. [Anon.], ‘Weaving or Plaiting Hair Ornaments’, and ‘Ornamental Bead and Bugle Work, in Elegant Arts for Ladies (London: Ward and Lock, 1856), pp. 3-10, 61-63. 92. [Anon.], ‘Ladies Card-Case in Gold Thread with Steel Beads on Kid’, The Lady’s Newspaper and Pictorial Times, 27 September 1862, p. 201.93. Anon.], ‘Imitation White Coral Basket’, Bow Bells, 9 November 1864, p. 357.94. [Anon.], ‘Household Decorative Art. II — Diaphanie’, Cassell’s Household Guide: Being A Complete Encyclopædia of Domestic and Social Economy, and Forming A Guide to Every Department of Practical Life (Vol. I). (London: Cassell, Petter, and Galpin: 1869), pp. 92-3.95. [Anon.], ‘The Fair Hand. A Story For Girls.’, Our Young Folks Weekly Budget, 5 July 1873, p. 277.96. [Anon.], ‘A Sea-Weed Album’, The Ladies’ Treasury, 1 December 1876, p. 727.97. [Anon.], ‘Uses for Shells and Sea-Weeds’, The Girl’s Own Paper, 13 November 1880, p. 99-100.98. Dora Hope, ‘How to Preserve Leaves and Flowers’, Silver Sails: Being the Holiday No. of The Girl’s Own Paper, 1882, pp. 33-5.99. [Anon.], ‘Answers to Correspondents’ (Response to ‘G. R.’ and ‘P.’), The Girl’s Own Paper, 2 January 1886, pp. 224. 100. John Strange Henrietta Eliza Vaughan Stannard, Mignon’s Secret, Extract from Chapter III. (New York: George Munro, 1886; Seaside Library Pocket Edition), pp. 21-4.101. [Anon.], ‘Editorial Notes’, Pick-Me-Up, 17 August 1889, p. 314. Index