Handbook of Formulating Dermal Applications

Nava Dayan Ph.D. Pharm has 26 years of experience in skin care segment, and has yielded more than 150 publication credits in numerous industry-respected journals and in four books. She has been awarded the In-Cosmetics Gold Award for innovation and commensurate recognition from the NYSCC and the CRS for excellence. Dr. Dayan is the owner of Dr. Nava Dayan L.L.C, a skin science and research consultancy serving the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and personal care industries; dermal and transdermal. Her services include product feasibility in skin care, composition of R&D plans covering efficacy and toxicology; planning, execution and data interpretation into claims, formulations, delivery for improved efficacy and attenuated toxicity. Sample of expertise includes: drug-skin interaction, bio-markers (genomics and proteomics), skin/age related sensitivities, inflammatory skin disorders, innate immunity and biota.

• Preface ixSection I Preliminary Considerations and Selection of Raw Materials1 Pre-formulation Design and Considerations 3Howard Epstein2 The Use of Thickeners in Topically Applied Formulations 29Jed Riemer and Tom Russo3 The Incorporation of Delivery Systems into Topical Formulations: A Case Study on the Use of Salicylic Acid for Acne Treatment 45Nripen S. Sharma, Bryan Grossman and Sam Shefer4 Formulating Skin Care Products with Silicones: Approaches and Strategies 59Bartley Maxon and Michael Starch5 The Use of Corn-derived Ingredients in Personal Care Applications 115Cindy YuSection II Formulation, Processing and Production Techniques6 Emulsions and their Characterization by Texture Profile Analysis 131Roger L. McMullen, Mihaela Gorcea and Susan Chen7 High Internal Phase Water-in-oil Emulsions 155Paul ThauIntroduction 1558 Manufacturing Topical Formulations: Scale-up from Lab to Pilot Production 167Michael Kimball9 Foam: A Unique Delivery Vehicle for Topically Applied Formulations 233Dov TamarkinSection III Testing and Measurements Methods10 Using Experimental Design to Optimize Formulations 263Joseph Albanese11 Rheological Properties of Topical Formulations 287Hemi Nae12 Viscosity Measurement for Topically Applied Formulations 346Daphne Benderly13 Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) Spectroscopic Imaging Analysis of Topical Formulations 369Samuel Gourion-Arsiquaud, Joel Coret, and David J. MooreSection IV Sensory and Elegancy14 Creating Appealing Topically Applied Formulations: Linking Physical Aspects to Marketing Psychology 381J. Mark Chandler15 The Use of Fragrance in Topically Applied Formulations 397Steve HermanSection V Stability and Preservation16 Stability Testing for Topical Formulation Development 427Gary R. Kelm17 Preservation of Topical Formulations: An Historical and Practical Overview 463Slawomir Paul Cebulski18 Microbiological Stability for Skin Care Formulations 485Kausar MalikSection VI Color Cosmetics19 Lip Care Product Formulation Strategies 513Daniel Sango and David Binder20 Formulation of Nail Care Products 539Robert W. SandewiczSection VII Sunscreens21 Formulation of Sunscreens in the United StatesPatricia Aikens22 Formulating a Day Cream with SPF: A Case Study 611Anne Pouillot and Rachel AmetsitsiGlossary of Terms, by Chapter 635Author Biographies 655Index 661