Companion to Textile Culture

Jennifer Harris is an Honorary Research Fellow at the University of Manchester, UK. Now retired, she was Deputy Director at the Whitworth Art Gallery, holding one of the finest collections of historical and contemporary textiles in the UK. Harris has researched and published in the fields of fashion, textiles, and avant-garde craft for more than thirty years. Her book 5000 Years of Textiles, first published in 1993 and reprinted several times, continues to be a standard text in the field.

• Acknowledgments xiList of Figures xiiiSeries Editor’s Preface xviiNotes on Contributors xixGeneral Introduction 1Part I Histories and Frameworks 71 Unraveling the Fabric of the Past: Interdisciplinary Approaches to Archaeological Textiles 11Margarita Gleba2 Textile Cultures in the Early Modern World 27Robert S. DuPlessis3 Rewriting Textile Culture with Woven Words: “Oro es tu hilar” by Chilean Poet Cecilia Vicuña 45Meredith G. Clark4 Branding Tradition: The Commercialization of Hand Embroidery in Gujarat 61Eiluned Edwards5 “The Real Thing”: How Object Analysis Unlocks Meaning and Enriches Documentary Evidence 83Adrienne D. HoodPart II Textiles, Trade, and Global Culture 1056 Reading Textiles: Transmission and Technology of Silk Road Textiles in the First Millennium 109Angela Sheng7 West Africa: Technology, Tradition, and Lurex Revisited 127John Picton8 Textiles of Eastern and Southern Africa 145Chris Spring9 Remaking Tradition in Art and Design in Pakistan 165Naazish Ata‐Ullah, Zeb Bilal and Shehnaz IsmailPart III The Social Fabric: The Politics and Poetics of Cloth 18110 Fabricating Identity: Textiles in the Pacific 187Paul Sharrad11 Stitching (in) Trauma: Constructing Identity in Thread Behind Prison Bars 201Maureen Daly Goggin12 Creative Tensions: Making (It), Unmaking, and Making Do in Textiles Informed by Feminism 219Alexandra Kokoli13 Spinning a Yarn of One’s Own 235Christine Checinska14 Pictures and Polemics: Muslim Veiling Practices in Contemporary Art 257Valerie Behiery15 The Subversive Stitch Revisited 275Lisa VinebaumPart IV Conceptual Boundaries 29916 Modernism’s Roots in the Domestic, Decorative, and Vernacular Through Textiles 303Virginia Gardner Troy17 Material Strategies: Cloth and Textile Metaphors in Modern and Contemporary Art 317Jennifer Harris18 Pragmatics of Attachment and Detachment: A Constellatory Reinscription of Textile 333Maxine Bristow19 Japanese Textile Culture: The Example of Junichi Arai and Five Other Creators 353Akiko Moriyama20 Stories of Innovation: Fabrication in Africa and Beyond 371Atta KwamiPart V Reception and Representation 39121 Around the World in 80 Biennials: Curating Lausanne, Hangzhou, Kaunas 395Janis Jefferies and Lee Weinberg22 Indigenous Textiles of North America: A Century of Exhibitions 417Elizabeth Kalbfleisch and Janet Catherine Berlo23 Valorizing Gee’s Bend Quilts: Affinity, Adjacency, and the Modern Eye 435Karin E. Peterson and Leisa Rundquist24 Performing the Political in Oceanian Textile Cultures: Collectivity, Syncretism, and Globalization 459Khadija von Zinnenburg CarrollIndex 475

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