Rebecca Arnold is Research Fellow in the History of Design Department at the Royal College of Art in London. She was Guest Professor in Fashion Studies at Stockholm University, 2006-2007. As Senior Lecturer at Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, University of the Arts, she established the first UK undergraduate degree in Fashion History & Theory. She has lectured and written widely on twentieth-century fashion. Her first book, 'Fashion, Desire & Anxiety: Image & Morality in the Twentieth Century' was published by I.B. Tauris in 2001.

• Contents 3List of Illustrations4Acknowledgements16Introduction17Chapter One: New York and the Evolution of Sportswear New York City61Sportswear84Modern Sportswear Aesthetic I102Chapter Two: American Body Culture Body Image/Body Culture119Health and Hygiene132Exercise and Dance147Sports Body164Chapter Three: Sportswear and the New York Fashion Industry During the Depression Effects of the Depression189Career Women207Fashion Group226Chapter Four: Sportswear’s Promotion During the 1930sNew York Department Stores240Fashion Media259The Monastic Dress and the Sportswear Promotion in the late 1930s279Chapter Five: Sportswear and the New York Fashion Industry During the Second World War Effects of the Second World War298Sportswear Design and Representation222Modern Sportswear Aesthetic II237Chapter Six: The American Look and the Rise of the Designer The American Look372New York Sportswear Designers and Consumerism394The Woman of Fashion 1947414Conclusion431Bibliography456Index

"'Written with clarity, elegance and meticulous attention to detail, this important new book raises the bar for fashion scholarship. Here is a genuinely new history that both challenges existing myths about Paris and sets American fashion in its proper cultural and economic context. Rebecca Arnold's adroit study shows how the lens of fashion can be refocused to reveal important insights about gender, identity and nationhood.' - Caroline Evans, Professor of Fashion History and Theory, Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design University of the Arts London"

Rebecca Arnold is Research Fellow in the History of Design Department at the Royal College of Art in London. She was Guest Professor in Fashion Studies at Stockholm University, 2006-2007. As Senior Lecturer at Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, University of the Arts, she established the first UK undergraduate degree in Fashion History & Theory. She has lectured and written widely on twentieth-century fashion. Her first book, 'Fashion, Desire & Anxiety: Image & Morality in the Twentieth Century' was published by I.B. Tauris in 2001.

• Contents 3List of Illustrations4Acknowledgements16Introduction17Chapter One: New York and the Evolution of Sportswear New York City61Sportswear84Modern Sportswear Aesthetic I102Chapter Two: American Body Culture Body Image/Body Culture119Health and Hygiene132Exercise and Dance147Sports Body164Chapter Three: Sportswear and the New York Fashion Industry During the Depression Effects of the Depression189Career Women207Fashion Group226Chapter Four: Sportswear’s Promotion During the 1930sNew York Department Stores240Fashion Media259The Monastic Dress and the Sportswear Promotion in the late 1930s279Chapter Five: Sportswear and the New York Fashion Industry During the Second World War Effects of the Second World War298Sportswear Design and Representation222Modern Sportswear Aesthetic II237Chapter Six: The American Look and the Rise of the Designer The American Look372New York Sportswear Designers and Consumerism394The Woman of Fashion 1947414Conclusion431Bibliography456Index

"'Written with clarity, elegance and meticulous attention to detail, this important new book raises the bar for fashion scholarship. Here is a genuinely new history that both challenges existing myths about Paris and sets American fashion in its proper cultural and economic context. Rebecca Arnold's adroit study shows how the lens of fashion can be refocused to reveal important insights about gender, identity and nationhood.' - Caroline Evans, Professor of Fashion History and Theory, Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design University of the Arts London"

Rebecca Arnold is Research Fellow in the History of Design Department at the Royal College of Art in London. She was Guest Professor in Fashion Studies at Stockholm University, 2006-2007. As Senior Lecturer at Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, University of the Arts, she established the first UK undergraduate degree in Fashion History & Theory. She has lectured and written widely on twentieth-century fashion. Her first book, 'Fashion, Desire & Anxiety: Image & Morality in the Twentieth Century' was published by I.B. Tauris in 2001.

• Contents 3List of Illustrations4Acknowledgements16Introduction17Chapter One: New York and the Evolution of Sportswear New York City61Sportswear84Modern Sportswear Aesthetic I102Chapter Two: American Body Culture Body Image/Body Culture119Health and Hygiene132Exercise and Dance147Sports Body164Chapter Three: Sportswear and the New York Fashion Industry During the Depression Effects of the Depression189Career Women207Fashion Group226Chapter Four: Sportswear’s Promotion During the 1930sNew York Department Stores240Fashion Media259The Monastic Dress and the Sportswear Promotion in the late 1930s279Chapter Five: Sportswear and the New York Fashion Industry During the Second World War Effects of the Second World War298Sportswear Design and Representation222Modern Sportswear Aesthetic II237Chapter Six: The American Look and the Rise of the Designer The American Look372New York Sportswear Designers and Consumerism394The Woman of Fashion 1947414Conclusion431Bibliography456Index

"'Written with clarity, elegance and meticulous attention to detail, this important new book raises the bar for fashion scholarship. Here is a genuinely new history that both challenges existing myths about Paris and sets American fashion in its proper cultural and economic context. Rebecca Arnold's adroit study shows how the lens of fashion can be refocused to reveal important insights about gender, identity and nationhood.' - Caroline Evans, Professor of Fashion History and Theory, Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design University of the Arts London"