Wind Generated Ocean Waves

• Chapter headings and selected papers: Introduction. Wave Theory. Introduction. Small amplitude or linear theory. Wave transformation. Limitations of linear wave theory. Stochastic Properties of Ocean Waves. Introduction. Probability distribution of wave heights. Global distribution of wave properties. Limitations of global statistics. Physical Mechanisms of Wave Evolution. Introduction. Radiative transfer equation. Atmospheric input, Sin. Nonlinear quadruplet interactions, Snl. White-cap dissipation, Sds. The spectral balance. Fetch and Duration Limited Growth. Introduction. Similarity theory and dimensionless scaling. Growth curves for energy and peak frequency. One-dimensional spectrum. Directional spreading. Non-Stationary Wind Fields. Introduction. The interaction of swell and wind sea. Rapid change in wind speed. Rapid change in wind direction. Hurricane wind and wave fields. Finite Depth Effects. Introduction. Physical processes. Finite depth growth curves. Finite depth one-dimensional spectra. Finite depth directional spreading. Numerical Modelling of Waves. Introduction. Phase resolving models. Phase averaging models. Source term representation. Computational aspects. The WAM model. Data assimilation. Ocean Wave Measurement. Introduction. In situ methods. Data analysis. Remote sensing techniques.

"(...)I thoroughly enjoyed reading Wind Generated Ocean Waves. As the introduction states, "this book attempts to summarize the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common framework and attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short-term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding." The task of writing such a work with these expectations is a difficult one; however, Young has clearly fulfilled these goals. Wind Generated Ocean Waves is outstanding and I believe it would be an excellent addition for anyone who is serious about this field of study." --Bulletin of the American Meteorological Society