Turkey Red

Julie Wertz is Beal Family Postgraduate Fellow in Conservation Science at Harvard Art Museums, USA.

• List of FiguresPrefaceAcknowledgmentsNote on the textIntroduction1. The Most Brilliant Color Dyed on Cotton1.1. Defining Turkey red1.1.1. A reputable red1.1.2. A complicated process1.2. Identifying Turkey red1.3. Material record1.4. Conclusion2. Global Exchanges and Anthraquinone Dyes2.1. The origin and dissemination of Turkey red2.1.1. India2.1.2. Indonesia2.1.3. The Levant and the Ottoman Empire2.1.4. The Hapsburg Empire2.1.5. France2.1.6. Britain2.2. Madder2.2.1. The cultivation of madder2.2.2. Madder composition and derivatives2.3. Synthetic alizarin2.3.1. Understanding alizarin2.3.2. Alizarin synthesis and patent disputes2.3.3. Synthetic alizarin products2.4. Conclusion3. The Dyeing, Chemistry, and Technological Advances of Turkey Red3.1 Oiling3.1.1Oiling in the old process3.1.2The chemistry of oiled cotton3.1.3Ruminant dung and tannins3.1.4Turkey red oil and the new process3.1.5The Steiner process3.2 Aluminium3.2.1Precipitated aluminium soaps3.3 Dyeing3.3.1Color complexes in Turkey red3.3.2 Blood and albumen3.4. Clearing3.5. Conclusions4. Printed Turkey Red4.1. Textile printing methods 4.2. Discharge printing1.1.3.Lead plate press discharging1.1.4.Acid paste discharging4.3. A bright palette1.1.5.Black, blue, yellow, and green1.1.6.Identifying colorants on Turkey red prints4.4. Design1.1.7.Industrial design and production1.1.8.European design for the export market4.5. Conclusions5. Turkey Red in the Industrial Revolution5.1. Turkey red industry by country5.1.1.France5.1.2. England5.1.3. Scotland5.1.4. Switzerland5.1.5. The Netherlands5.1.6. North America5.1.7. Other locations5.2. Working conditions and labor5.3. Colonialism5.4. Conclusions6. Trade, Use, and Object Record6.1. Documentary evidence of availability6.2. How Turkey red was used6.2.1. Bandanas6.2.2. Domestic textiles, quilts and bedcovers6.2.3. Accessories, garments, and tools6.3.ConclusionsConclusionsGlossaryReferencesIndex

A glossary, a list of chemicals, a detailed list of the footnotes which frequent the text, and an extensive list of references complete this very well-written book, which should be of much interest to the serious practising natural dyer, as well as many other textile enthusiasts.