Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics

Kashmiri Lal Mittal was employed by the IBM Corporation from 1972 through 1993. Currently, he is teaching and consulting worldwide in the broad areas of adhesion as well as surface cleaning. He has received numerous awards and honors including the title of doctor honoris causa from Maria Curie-Skłodowska University, Lublin, Poland. He is the editor of more than 130 books dealing with adhesion measurement, adhesion of polymeric coatings, polymer surfaces, adhesive joints, adhesion promoters, thin films, polyimides, surface modification surface cleaning, and surfactants. Dr. Mittal is also the Founding Editor of the journal Reviews of Adhesion and Adhesives.Hy Si Bui obtained his BS degrees in Physics, Mathematics and Polymer Science at the University of Southern Mississippi, MS in Colloids, Polymers & Surfaces, and PhD in Chemistry at Carnegie Mellon University. He was a Coating chemist at Bayer Corporation (Covestro) and was a recipient of the Presidential Green Chemistry Challenge Award in 2000 for Two-Component Waterborne Polyurethane Coatings. He has been at L’OREAL USA for 16 years and is currently a Sr. Principal Scientist and Sr. L’OREAL Expert in Cosmetic Application Domain. He has contributed to the launch of more than 45 cosmetic products to the market and obtained 108 granted US patents and 70 pre-granted patents.

• Preface xxiPart 1: General Topics 11 Lip Biophysical Properties and Characterization Methods for Long-Wear Lipsticks 3Rebecca Barresi and I-Chien Liao1.1 Introduction 41.2 Overview of Lip Anatomy & Lip Surface Properties 81.3 In Vitro Evaluation Methods for Lipsticks 171.4 Relation of In Vitro Analysis with Consumer Sensory Testing 251.5 Summary 282 Effect of Cosmetic Oils on Lipstick Structure and Its Deposit 35Momoko Suzumeji Shimizu, Yuta Nomura and Hy Si Bui2.1 Introduction 352.2 Types of Natural Waxes, Their Physical Properties and Potential Applications 382.3 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures 412.4 Study on Model Oil-Wax System Containing Polyethylene Wax 472.5 Results and Discussion 502.6 Summary 673 UV Curing of Nail Gels by Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Fluorescent (FL) Light Sources 73Michael J. Dvorchak and Melanie L. Clouser3.1 Introduction 733.2 UV Cure Chemistry 743.3 UV Cure Light Sources: Gallium-Doped Low-Wattage Long Wavelength Fluorescent (FL) Bulbs and Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) 763.4 UV Cure Oxygen Inhibition Issues 803.5 Special Considerations for the Use of UV Nail Gel Technology Due to Oxygen Inhibition 813.6 How to Formulate a UV-A Cure Nail Gel 853.7 Formulation of UV Nail Gels with 100% Solids UV Cure Oligomers and Monomers 893.8 Human Nail Mechanical and Surface Free Energy Properties 923.9 Adhesion of UV Nail Gel to the Human Nail Plate 973.10 Removal of the UV Nail Gel From the Human Nail Plate 993.11 Alternative Uses of UV Cured Nail Gels as a Solution to Remedy Onychomycosis (Toenail Fungus) 993.12 UV Cured Nail Gel Safety 1033.13 Prospects on UV Nail Gels 1043.14 Summary 1054 Rheological Properties Influence Tackiness, Application and Performance of Nail Polish/Lacquer Formulations 109Leidy Nallely Jimenez, Carina D. V. Martínez Narváez, Chenxian Xu, Samantha Bacchi and Vivek Sharma4.1 Introduction 1104.2 Typical Ingredients of a Nail Polish Formulation 1134.3 Rheological Response of Nail Polishes: Background 1164.4 Methods for Characterizing Flow Behavior and Applicationto Nail Polishes 1204.5 Materials: Ingredients of the Twelve Nail Polishes 1224.6 Results and Discussion 1234.7 Summary and Conclusions 1415 Use of Advanced Silicone Materials in Long-Lasting Cosmetics 151Amar B. Pawar and Benjamin Falk5.1 Introduction 1515.2 Adhesion to Skin 1525.3 Formulation Strategies for Long-Lasting Cosmetics 1575.4 Advanced Silicone Materials for Long-Wear Cosmetics 1605.5 Summary and Prospective Film-Formers for Long-WearPart 2: Surface Science Aspects 1836 Advances in the Chemical Structure of the Hair Surface, Surface Forces and Interactions 185Gustavo S. Luengo and Andrew J. Greaves6.1 Introduction 1856.2 Structure of Hair and the Outermost Surface 1876.3 Chemical and Physical Modifications of the Hair Surface 1876.4 Local Physico-Chemical Understanding of the Hair Surface 1976.5 Macroscopic Understanding of the Chemical Nature of the Hair Surface 2036.6 Impact of the Hair Chemical Nature on Sensorial and Consumer Benefits 2076.7 Prospects 2086.8 Summary 2087 AFM for Hair Surface Characterisation 215Steven Breakspear, Bernd Noecker and Crisan Popescu7.1 Hair Structure 2157.2 Elements of AFM 2177.3 The Use of AFM to Characterize the Hair Surface/Cuticle 2277.4 Cosmetic Treatment (e.g. Bleaching) as Shown by AFM 2377.5 Summary 2408 Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) as a Surface Characterization Tool for Hair, Skin, and Cosmetic Deposition 245Norbert Biderman and Hy Si Bui8.1 Introduction 2458.2 Atomic Force Microscopy Compared to Other Microscopy Techniques 2468.3 The Principles of Atomic Force Microscopy 2478.4 A Brief History of Hair Surface Investigation via Atomic Force Microscopy 2498.5 Lateral Force Microscopy (LFM) of the Hair Surface 2498.6 Adhesion at the Nanoscale via AFM 2518.7 Elastic Modulus Measurement via AFM 2548.8 Hair Studies via AFM 2568.8.1 Nanomechanical Properties of the Hair Surface 2568.9 Skin Studies via AFM 2658.10 Summary and Prospects 2749 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry as a Surface Analysis Method for Hair, Skin, and Cosmetics 279Norbert Biderman9.1 Introduction 2799.2 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (SIMS) 2809.3 Studying the Skin via TOF-SIMS 2909.4 Studying the Hair Via TOF-SIMS 2959.5 Future Prospects 305Part 3: Wetting and Adhesion Aspects 30910 Surface Tensiometry Approach to Characterize Cosmetic Products in the Beauty Sector 311Davide Rossi and Nicola Realdon10.1 Introduction 31210.2 Peels 31310.3 Face Masks 31610.4 Serums 32510.5 Eye Contour Creams 32710.6 Mascara 32910.7 Eyeshadows 33410.8 Lipsticks 33610.9 Foundation 33910.10 Anti-Aging Formulations 34010.11 Summary 34811 Spreading of Hairsprays on Hair 353Yashavanth Kamath and Xuemin Chen11.1 Introduction 35311.2 Background on Interaction of Liquid Droplets with Fibers 35411.3 Materials and Experimental Methods 35911.4 Results and Discussion 36111.5 General Observations on the Behavior of Holding Spray on Hair 37011.6 Shine Spray on One Bleached Hair Fiber 37311.7 Summary 37512 Quantification of the Color Transfer from Long-Wear Face Foundation Products: The Relevance of Wettability 379Joseph V. Badami and Hy Si Bui12.1 Introduction 38012.2 Experiments 38112.3 Results and Discussion 38412.4 Summary and Perspectives 39613 Interaction of Polyelectrolytes and Surfactants on Hair Surfaces. Deposits and their Characterization 401Gustavo S. Luengo, Eduardo Guzman, Laura Fernández-Peña, Fabien Leonforte, Francisco Ortega and Ramon G. Rubio13.1 Introduction 40213.2 Hair Structure and Its External Surface 40313.3 Experimental Approaches for the Evaluation of the Deposition of Polyelectrolyte-Surfactant Systems onto Model Surfaces 41313.4 Theoretical Modelling of Polyelectrolyte-Surfactant Mixtures 43013.5 Prospects 44113.6 Summary 44114 Adhesion Aspect and Film-Forming Properties of Hydrocarbon Polymers-Based Lipsticks 451Julien Portal, Xavier Schultze, Simon Taupin, Mireille Arnaud-Roux, Jerome Bonnard, Gregoire Naudin, Marc Hely, Hy Bui and Norbert Biderman14.1 Introduction 45214.2 Synthesis and Characterization of the Model Oil Compatible Polymers Dispersions 45614.3 NADs as Film-Formers for Long-Wear, Non-Transfer Lipstick 47614.4 Summary and Prospects 48015 Factors Enhancing Adhesion of Color Cosmetic Products to Skin: The Role of Pigments and Fillers 487Hubert Lam15.1 Introduction 48815.2 Overview of Pigments: Basic Physicochemical Considerations in Long-Wear Color Cosmetics 48815.3 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Long-Wear Color Cosmetics 51015.4 Summary and Prospects 53416 Factors Affecting Cosmetics Adhesion to Facial Skin 543Zhi Li and Hy Si Bui16.1 Introduction 54316.2 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Skin Substrate Properties 54416.3 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Formulation Components 54916.4 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Combination of Film-Formers and Emulsifiers 57316.5 Summary and Prospects 58017 Adhesion Aspect in Semi-Permanent Mascara 585Christopher Pang and Hy Si Bui17.1 Introduction 58517.2 Structure of Eyelash and Eye Lid: An Overview 58717.3 Types of Mascaras 58917.4 Components in Mascara Formulations 59317.5 Long-Wear Mascaras 59617.6 Evaluation Methods for Long-Wear Mascara 59817.7 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Mascara on an Eyelash 60417.8 Removability of Mascara 62417.9 Summary and Prospects 62818 Lipstick Adhesion Measurement 635Caroline Richard18.1 Introduction 63518.2 Definition of Adhesion 64118.3 Sensory Metrology: Subjective Methods 64318.4 Mechanical Tests: Objective Methods 64918.5 Correlation Between Sensory and Instrumental Tests 65618.6 Summary 659Acknowledgments 659References 659Index 663

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