Peter Strafford is a distinguished journalist who worked on The Times for more than three decades, including in Paris and Brussels, and was, among other things, the Times correspondent in New York for five years and a leader-writer in London commenting on international affairs. His last position was editor of The Times's special reports on foreign countries, many of which he visited himself, including several in South America and Spain itself. His acclaimed Romanesque Churches of France has recently been reprinted.

• Acknowledgement vi Place Names vi Glossary ix General Introduction 1 Historical background 12 Monasteries 21 Pilgrimages 25 Before Romanesque 32 Catalonia Introduction 33 Barcelona: Sant Pau del Camp 37 Besalu 40 Bossost and the Vall d'Aran: Bossost, Vielha, SalardA' 42 Cardona 44 Corbera 47 L'Estany 49 Frontanya 52 Gerri de la Sal 54 Girona 55 Lleida 60 Montserrat: Santa Cecilia 64 Poblet, Santes Creus, Vallbona de les Monges 65 Ponts and Agramunt 71 Ripoll 74 Sant Benet de Bages 80 Sant Cugat del Valles 83 Sant Joan de les Abadesses 86 Sant Pere de Casserres 89 Sant Pere de Rodes 91 La Seu d'Urgell 94 Tarragona 100 Taull and the Vall de Boi: Taull, Boi, Erill la Vall 102 Terrassa 111 La Tossa de Montbui 115 Aragon Introduction 117 Aguero 119 Alquezar 122 Huesca 126 Jaca 130 Larrede 135 Loarre 137 San Juan de la Pena 141 Siresa 146 Sos del Rey Catolico 147 Uncastillo 150 Navarre and the Basque Country Introduction 155 Armentia 156 Estella 162 Estibaliz 168 Eunate 172 Leyre 174 Sanguesa 180 San Vicentejo 186 Torres del Rio 188 Tudela 192 Cantabria Introduction 195 Castaneda 196 Cervatos 198 Santa Maria de Lebena 201 Santillana del Mar 203 Castile and La Rioja Introduction 209 Avila 211 Banos de Cerrato 217 Fromista 220 Quintanilla de las Vinas 223 Rebolledo de la Torre 225 San Baudelio de Berlanga 228 San Cebrian de Mazote 231 San Esteban de Gormaz 235 San Lorenzo de Vallejo 239 San Millan de la Cogolla 241 San Pantaleon de Losa 244 San Pedro de Tejada 247 San Quirce 251 Santa Maria de Wamba 253 Santo Domingo de Silos 258 Segovia 266 Sepulveda 283 Soria 284 Leon Introduction 293 Leon 295 Sahagun 302 Salamanca 305 San Miguel de Escalada 309 San Pedro de la Nave 313 San Pedro de las Duenas 316 Santa Marta de Tera 318 Santiago de Penalba 321 Toro 323 Zamora 326 Asturias Introduction 337 Oviedo: Camara Santa and Santullano 338 Oviedo: Santa Maria de Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo 342 San Salvador de Priesca 346 San Salvador de Valdedios 348 Santa Cristina de Lena 350 Galicia Introduction 353 Aciveiro 355 Cambre 358 Celanova 361 Mondonedo 362 Santa Comba de Bande 365 Santiago de Compostela: Cathedral 367 Santiago de Compostela: Santa Maria de Sar 380 Vilar de Donas 383 Index 386

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Peter Strafford is a distinguished journalist who worked on The Times for more than three decades, including in Paris and Brussels, and was, among other things, the Times correspondent in New York for five years and a leader-writer in London commenting on international affairs. His last position was editor of The Times's special reports on foreign countries, many of which he visited himself, including several in South America and Spain itself. His acclaimed Romanesque Churches of France has recently been reprinted.

• Acknowledgement vi Place Names vi Glossary ix General Introduction 1 Historical background 12 Monasteries 21 Pilgrimages 25 Before Romanesque 32 Catalonia Introduction 33 Barcelona: Sant Pau del Camp 37 Besalu 40 Bossost and the Vall d'Aran: Bossost, Vielha, SalardA' 42 Cardona 44 Corbera 47 L'Estany 49 Frontanya 52 Gerri de la Sal 54 Girona 55 Lleida 60 Montserrat: Santa Cecilia 64 Poblet, Santes Creus, Vallbona de les Monges 65 Ponts and Agramunt 71 Ripoll 74 Sant Benet de Bages 80 Sant Cugat del Valles 83 Sant Joan de les Abadesses 86 Sant Pere de Casserres 89 Sant Pere de Rodes 91 La Seu d'Urgell 94 Tarragona 100 Taull and the Vall de Boi: Taull, Boi, Erill la Vall 102 Terrassa 111 La Tossa de Montbui 115 Aragon Introduction 117 Aguero 119 Alquezar 122 Huesca 126 Jaca 130 Larrede 135 Loarre 137 San Juan de la Pena 141 Siresa 146 Sos del Rey Catolico 147 Uncastillo 150 Navarre and the Basque Country Introduction 155 Armentia 156 Estella 162 Estibaliz 168 Eunate 172 Leyre 174 Sanguesa 180 San Vicentejo 186 Torres del Rio 188 Tudela 192 Cantabria Introduction 195 Castaneda 196 Cervatos 198 Santa Maria de Lebena 201 Santillana del Mar 203 Castile and La Rioja Introduction 209 Avila 211 Banos de Cerrato 217 Fromista 220 Quintanilla de las Vinas 223 Rebolledo de la Torre 225 San Baudelio de Berlanga 228 San Cebrian de Mazote 231 San Esteban de Gormaz 235 San Lorenzo de Vallejo 239 San Millan de la Cogolla 241 San Pantaleon de Losa 244 San Pedro de Tejada 247 San Quirce 251 Santa Maria de Wamba 253 Santo Domingo de Silos 258 Segovia 266 Sepulveda 283 Soria 284 Leon Introduction 293 Leon 295 Sahagun 302 Salamanca 305 San Miguel de Escalada 309 San Pedro de la Nave 313 San Pedro de las Duenas 316 Santa Marta de Tera 318 Santiago de Penalba 321 Toro 323 Zamora 326 Asturias Introduction 337 Oviedo: Camara Santa and Santullano 338 Oviedo: Santa Maria de Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo 342 San Salvador de Priesca 346 San Salvador de Valdedios 348 Santa Cristina de Lena 350 Galicia Introduction 353 Aciveiro 355 Cambre 358 Celanova 361 Mondonedo 362 Santa Comba de Bande 365 Santiago de Compostela: Cathedral 367 Santiago de Compostela: Santa Maria de Sar 380 Vilar de Donas 383 Index 386

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Peter Strafford is a distinguished journalist who worked on The Times for more than three decades, including in Paris and Brussels, and was, among other things, the Times correspondent in New York for five years and a leader-writer in London commenting on international affairs. His last position was editor of The Times's special reports on foreign countries, many of which he visited himself, including several in South America and Spain itself. His acclaimed Romanesque Churches of France has recently been reprinted.

• Acknowledgement vi Place Names vi Glossary ix General Introduction 1 Historical background 12 Monasteries 21 Pilgrimages 25 Before Romanesque 32 Catalonia Introduction 33 Barcelona: Sant Pau del Camp 37 Besalu 40 Bossost and the Vall d'Aran: Bossost, Vielha, SalardA' 42 Cardona 44 Corbera 47 L'Estany 49 Frontanya 52 Gerri de la Sal 54 Girona 55 Lleida 60 Montserrat: Santa Cecilia 64 Poblet, Santes Creus, Vallbona de les Monges 65 Ponts and Agramunt 71 Ripoll 74 Sant Benet de Bages 80 Sant Cugat del Valles 83 Sant Joan de les Abadesses 86 Sant Pere de Casserres 89 Sant Pere de Rodes 91 La Seu d'Urgell 94 Tarragona 100 Taull and the Vall de Boi: Taull, Boi, Erill la Vall 102 Terrassa 111 La Tossa de Montbui 115 Aragon Introduction 117 Aguero 119 Alquezar 122 Huesca 126 Jaca 130 Larrede 135 Loarre 137 San Juan de la Pena 141 Siresa 146 Sos del Rey Catolico 147 Uncastillo 150 Navarre and the Basque Country Introduction 155 Armentia 156 Estella 162 Estibaliz 168 Eunate 172 Leyre 174 Sanguesa 180 San Vicentejo 186 Torres del Rio 188 Tudela 192 Cantabria Introduction 195 Castaneda 196 Cervatos 198 Santa Maria de Lebena 201 Santillana del Mar 203 Castile and La Rioja Introduction 209 Avila 211 Banos de Cerrato 217 Fromista 220 Quintanilla de las Vinas 223 Rebolledo de la Torre 225 San Baudelio de Berlanga 228 San Cebrian de Mazote 231 San Esteban de Gormaz 235 San Lorenzo de Vallejo 239 San Millan de la Cogolla 241 San Pantaleon de Losa 244 San Pedro de Tejada 247 San Quirce 251 Santa Maria de Wamba 253 Santo Domingo de Silos 258 Segovia 266 Sepulveda 283 Soria 284 Leon Introduction 293 Leon 295 Sahagun 302 Salamanca 305 San Miguel de Escalada 309 San Pedro de la Nave 313 San Pedro de las Duenas 316 Santa Marta de Tera 318 Santiago de Penalba 321 Toro 323 Zamora 326 Asturias Introduction 337 Oviedo: Camara Santa and Santullano 338 Oviedo: Santa Maria de Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo 342 San Salvador de Priesca 346 San Salvador de Valdedios 348 Santa Cristina de Lena 350 Galicia Introduction 353 Aciveiro 355 Cambre 358 Celanova 361 Mondonedo 362 Santa Comba de Bande 365 Santiago de Compostela: Cathedral 367 Santiago de Compostela: Santa Maria de Sar 380 Vilar de Donas 383 Index 386

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