Susan Keevil started her life in wine as a ‘cellar rat’ cooling Chardonnays in Australia’s Hunter Valley, none of which prepared her for the world of book publishing back in the UK where she honed her wine knowledge working with Hugh Johnson on six editions of his international best-seller, The Pocket Wine Book. Susan then landed her dream job as editor of Decanter magazine (the path to many worldwide wine adventures) and later became author of the Which? Guide to Wine as well as a regular magazine columnist and contributor. The launch of the Académie du Vin Library in 2019 saw a return to specialist wine books for which Susan is a writer and editor-in-chief.

• FOREWORD Aubert de Villaine 9INTRODUCTION Jasper Morris MW 10PREFACE Susan Keevil 13WHY BURGUNDY? Jay McInerney 141 The Secrets in the Contours 17VILLAGE LIFE – Hugh Johnson 18THE DRYSTONE WALLS OF BURGUNDY – Jasper Morris MW 28MESSAGES FROM THE EARTH – Allen D Meadows 32THE ENIGMA OF SOIL – Remington Norman 39HOLY GRAIL OR CHARISMATIC ILLUSION? – Professor Alex Maltman 462 Red Versus White 55LOOK AT THEM NOW – Sophie Thorpe 56THE RED SLOPE AND THE WHITE – Hugh Johnson 5950 SHADES OF CHARDONNAY – Jasper Morris MW 63‘BURGHOUND’ – Randall Grahm 68PINOT NOIR: CRACKING THE CLONAL CODE – Anne Krebiehl MW 71IN PRAISE OF THE GOLDEN WINE – Clive Coates MW 78BURGUNDY’S MAGIC MOUNTAIN – Gerald Asher 81ALIGOTE REBORN! – Elaine Chukan Brown 883 Saints Preserve Us! 91WHO ARE THE BURGUNDIANS? – Jasper Morris MW 92A SAINTLY JOB (BUT SOMEONE’S GOT TO DO IT...) – Bart Van Loo 101CHAMBERTIN, THE SAINT AMONG WINES – Matt Kramer 106THE GODFORSAKEN SIXTIES – Hugh Johnson 108THE RIVALS – Simon Loftus 111WHOSE SIDE ARE THE ICE SAINTS ON? – Margaret Rand 1194 Bottled Alive! 125OF MONTRACHET AND MOON PHASES –Monty Waldin, Clive Coates MW and William Kelley 126BURGUNDY IN THE FACE OF CLIMATE CHANGE – Tim Atkin MW 132LIVING ON AND ON – Douglas Barzelay 139SPEED THE PLOUGH – Sarah Marsh MW 150HUMANIZING THE DIVINE – Kelli White 1595 Cads, Bounders, Blenders and Bone-Setters 167A DELICATE TOPIC IN BURGUNDY – Douglas Barzelay 168RENDER UNTO CAESAR THE THINGS THAT ARE CAESAR’S – Roy Richards 175WOLVES AT THE DOOR – Don and Petie Kladstrup 179BLAME IT ON NAPOLEON – Margaret Rand 182THE DISLOYAL GAMAAZ – Matt Kramer 1876 Wine into Words 191Oz Clarke • Maurice Healy • Hugh Johnson • Serena Sutcliffe MWRoger Scruton • Evelyn Waugh • Steven Spurrier • Cyrus ReddingRex Pickett • Andrew Jefford • H Warner Allen • Jay MacInerneyJohn Arlott • George Meredith • Michael Broadbent7 Off the Main Drag 201CHABLIS, A BUYER’S TALE – Kermit Lynch 202SLOW BEAUJOLAIS – Natasha Hughes MW 207MAKE MINE A MACONNAIS – Jane McQuitty 213BURGUNDY IS KING IN CHINA – Jeannie Cho Lee MW 2198 Princes, Peasants and Pioneers 223AUBERT DE VILLAINE – A TRIPLE LEGACY – Raymond Blake 224BECKY WASSERMAN, THE SAGE OF BURGUNDY – Eric Asimov 230DOMAINE DUJAC STICKS TO ITS GUNS – Stephen Brook 235HENRI JAYER, THE JEDI MASTER – Daniel Johnnes 241BOISSET: THE RISE OF A NEW STAR – Raymond Blake 246ANNE-CLAUDE LEFLAIVE – LA FEE MARRAINE – Fiona Morisson MW 2529 The Road to Romanée 255BURGUNDY A TABLE – Raymond Blake 256BURGUNDY’S BENEVOLENT HAUNTING – John Atkinson MW 261BURGUNDY ON THE SPOT – Anthony Hanson MW 264On Burgundy, The Authors and Experts 268Sponsors’ page 273Index and Acknowledgements 274

"You might not be able to afford the top wines, but you can still read about them." - Decanter

Susan Keevil started her life in wine as a ‘cellar rat’ cooling Chardonnays in Australia’s Hunter Valley, none of which prepared her for the world of book publishing back in the UK where she honed her wine knowledge working with Hugh Johnson on six editions of his international best-seller, The Pocket Wine Book. Susan then landed her dream job as editor of Decanter magazine (the path to many worldwide wine adventures) and later became author of the Which? Guide to Wine as well as a regular magazine columnist and contributor. The launch of the Académie du Vin Library in 2019 saw a return to specialist wine books for which Susan is a writer and editor-in-chief.

• FOREWORD Aubert de Villaine 9INTRODUCTION Jasper Morris MW 10PREFACE Susan Keevil 13WHY BURGUNDY? Jay McInerney 141 The Secrets in the Contours 17VILLAGE LIFE – Hugh Johnson 18THE DRYSTONE WALLS OF BURGUNDY – Jasper Morris MW 28MESSAGES FROM THE EARTH – Allen D Meadows 32THE ENIGMA OF SOIL – Remington Norman 39HOLY GRAIL OR CHARISMATIC ILLUSION? – Professor Alex Maltman 462 Red Versus White 55LOOK AT THEM NOW – Sophie Thorpe 56THE RED SLOPE AND THE WHITE – Hugh Johnson 5950 SHADES OF CHARDONNAY – Jasper Morris MW 63‘BURGHOUND’ – Randall Grahm 68PINOT NOIR: CRACKING THE CLONAL CODE – Anne Krebiehl MW 71IN PRAISE OF THE GOLDEN WINE – Clive Coates MW 78BURGUNDY’S MAGIC MOUNTAIN – Gerald Asher 81ALIGOTE REBORN! – Elaine Chukan Brown 883 Saints Preserve Us! 91WHO ARE THE BURGUNDIANS? – Jasper Morris MW 92A SAINTLY JOB (BUT SOMEONE’S GOT TO DO IT...) – Bart Van Loo 101CHAMBERTIN, THE SAINT AMONG WINES – Matt Kramer 106THE GODFORSAKEN SIXTIES – Hugh Johnson 108THE RIVALS – Simon Loftus 111WHOSE SIDE ARE THE ICE SAINTS ON? – Margaret Rand 1194 Bottled Alive! 125OF MONTRACHET AND MOON PHASES –Monty Waldin, Clive Coates MW and William Kelley 126BURGUNDY IN THE FACE OF CLIMATE CHANGE – Tim Atkin MW 132LIVING ON AND ON – Douglas Barzelay 139SPEED THE PLOUGH – Sarah Marsh MW 150HUMANIZING THE DIVINE – Kelli White 1595 Cads, Bounders, Blenders and Bone-Setters 167A DELICATE TOPIC IN BURGUNDY – Douglas Barzelay 168RENDER UNTO CAESAR THE THINGS THAT ARE CAESAR’S – Roy Richards 175WOLVES AT THE DOOR – Don and Petie Kladstrup 179BLAME IT ON NAPOLEON – Margaret Rand 182THE DISLOYAL GAMAAZ – Matt Kramer 1876 Wine into Words 191Oz Clarke • Maurice Healy • Hugh Johnson • Serena Sutcliffe MWRoger Scruton • Evelyn Waugh • Steven Spurrier • Cyrus ReddingRex Pickett • Andrew Jefford • H Warner Allen • Jay MacInerneyJohn Arlott • George Meredith • Michael Broadbent7 Off the Main Drag 201CHABLIS, A BUYER’S TALE – Kermit Lynch 202SLOW BEAUJOLAIS – Natasha Hughes MW 207MAKE MINE A MACONNAIS – Jane McQuitty 213BURGUNDY IS KING IN CHINA – Jeannie Cho Lee MW 2198 Princes, Peasants and Pioneers 223AUBERT DE VILLAINE – A TRIPLE LEGACY – Raymond Blake 224BECKY WASSERMAN, THE SAGE OF BURGUNDY – Eric Asimov 230DOMAINE DUJAC STICKS TO ITS GUNS – Stephen Brook 235HENRI JAYER, THE JEDI MASTER – Daniel Johnnes 241BOISSET: THE RISE OF A NEW STAR – Raymond Blake 246ANNE-CLAUDE LEFLAIVE – LA FEE MARRAINE – Fiona Morisson MW 2529 The Road to Romanée 255BURGUNDY A TABLE – Raymond Blake 256BURGUNDY’S BENEVOLENT HAUNTING – John Atkinson MW 261BURGUNDY ON THE SPOT – Anthony Hanson MW 264On Burgundy, The Authors and Experts 268Sponsors’ page 273Index and Acknowledgements 274

"You might not be able to afford the top wines, but you can still read about them." - Decanter

Susan Keevil started her life in wine as a ‘cellar rat’ cooling Chardonnays in Australia’s Hunter Valley, none of which prepared her for the world of book publishing back in the UK where she honed her wine knowledge working with Hugh Johnson on six editions of his international best-seller, The Pocket Wine Book. Susan then landed her dream job as editor of Decanter magazine (the path to many worldwide wine adventures) and later became author of the Which? Guide to Wine as well as a regular magazine columnist and contributor. The launch of the Académie du Vin Library in 2019 saw a return to specialist wine books for which Susan is a writer and editor-in-chief.

• FOREWORD Aubert de Villaine 9INTRODUCTION Jasper Morris MW 10PREFACE Susan Keevil 13WHY BURGUNDY? Jay McInerney 141 The Secrets in the Contours 17VILLAGE LIFE – Hugh Johnson 18THE DRYSTONE WALLS OF BURGUNDY – Jasper Morris MW 28MESSAGES FROM THE EARTH – Allen D Meadows 32THE ENIGMA OF SOIL – Remington Norman 39HOLY GRAIL OR CHARISMATIC ILLUSION? – Professor Alex Maltman 462 Red Versus White 55LOOK AT THEM NOW – Sophie Thorpe 56THE RED SLOPE AND THE WHITE – Hugh Johnson 5950 SHADES OF CHARDONNAY – Jasper Morris MW 63‘BURGHOUND’ – Randall Grahm 68PINOT NOIR: CRACKING THE CLONAL CODE – Anne Krebiehl MW 71IN PRAISE OF THE GOLDEN WINE – Clive Coates MW 78BURGUNDY’S MAGIC MOUNTAIN – Gerald Asher 81ALIGOTE REBORN! – Elaine Chukan Brown 883 Saints Preserve Us! 91WHO ARE THE BURGUNDIANS? – Jasper Morris MW 92A SAINTLY JOB (BUT SOMEONE’S GOT TO DO IT...) – Bart Van Loo 101CHAMBERTIN, THE SAINT AMONG WINES – Matt Kramer 106THE GODFORSAKEN SIXTIES – Hugh Johnson 108THE RIVALS – Simon Loftus 111WHOSE SIDE ARE THE ICE SAINTS ON? – Margaret Rand 1194 Bottled Alive! 125OF MONTRACHET AND MOON PHASES –Monty Waldin, Clive Coates MW and William Kelley 126BURGUNDY IN THE FACE OF CLIMATE CHANGE – Tim Atkin MW 132LIVING ON AND ON – Douglas Barzelay 139SPEED THE PLOUGH – Sarah Marsh MW 150HUMANIZING THE DIVINE – Kelli White 1595 Cads, Bounders, Blenders and Bone-Setters 167A DELICATE TOPIC IN BURGUNDY – Douglas Barzelay 168RENDER UNTO CAESAR THE THINGS THAT ARE CAESAR’S – Roy Richards 175WOLVES AT THE DOOR – Don and Petie Kladstrup 179BLAME IT ON NAPOLEON – Margaret Rand 182THE DISLOYAL GAMAAZ – Matt Kramer 1876 Wine into Words 191Oz Clarke • Maurice Healy • Hugh Johnson • Serena Sutcliffe MWRoger Scruton • Evelyn Waugh • Steven Spurrier • Cyrus ReddingRex Pickett • Andrew Jefford • H Warner Allen • Jay MacInerneyJohn Arlott • George Meredith • Michael Broadbent7 Off the Main Drag 201CHABLIS, A BUYER’S TALE – Kermit Lynch 202SLOW BEAUJOLAIS – Natasha Hughes MW 207MAKE MINE A MACONNAIS – Jane McQuitty 213BURGUNDY IS KING IN CHINA – Jeannie Cho Lee MW 2198 Princes, Peasants and Pioneers 223AUBERT DE VILLAINE – A TRIPLE LEGACY – Raymond Blake 224BECKY WASSERMAN, THE SAGE OF BURGUNDY – Eric Asimov 230DOMAINE DUJAC STICKS TO ITS GUNS – Stephen Brook 235HENRI JAYER, THE JEDI MASTER – Daniel Johnnes 241BOISSET: THE RISE OF A NEW STAR – Raymond Blake 246ANNE-CLAUDE LEFLAIVE – LA FEE MARRAINE – Fiona Morisson MW 2529 The Road to Romanée 255BURGUNDY A TABLE – Raymond Blake 256BURGUNDY’S BENEVOLENT HAUNTING – John Atkinson MW 261BURGUNDY ON THE SPOT – Anthony Hanson MW 264On Burgundy, The Authors and Experts 268Sponsors’ page 273Index and Acknowledgements 274

"You might not be able to afford the top wines, but you can still read about them." - Decanter