Introducing Fashion Theory

Andrew Reilly, PhD, is an Associate Professor of Fashion Design and Merchandising at University of Hawaii, Manoa, US.

• 1. OverviewIntroduction to theoryWhy use theory?Methods of inquiryWhat is fashion?Who has fashion?Fashioning the bodyThe tipping pointSemiotics: How does fashion mean?Organization of textBoxed case 1.1: Maslow’s hierarchy and fashionBoxed case 1.2: Classics can have fashionable details tooSummaryKey TermsDiscussion questionsLearning activitiesNotesFurther reading2. The Fashion SystemMarket Infrastructure theory: The role of gatekeepersTrickle Across theory: Why new styles appear at onceInnovation theory: The role of new productsHistoric resurrection: Haven’t I seen this before?Branding: Creating an identity SummaryBoxed case 2.1: Blockchain technology and intellectual property Boxed case 2.2: Fake followersBoxed case 2.3: John Fairchild and the midi mistakeKey TermsDiscussion questionsLearning activitiesNotesFurther Reading3. Fashion and the IndividualThe Public, Private, and Secret Self: What we reveal to othersBody image: Feelings about our bodiesAesthetic perception and learning: Why are we attracted to the clothes we see?Shifting Erogenous Zones: Reveal and concealHistoric Continuity theory: Small changes over timeSymbolic Interaction theory: The individual and societyBoxed case 3.1: One individual starts a trendBoxed case 3.2: The color purple SummaryKey TermsDiscussion questionsLearning activitiesFurther reading4. Fashion and SocietyTrickle Down theory: Fashion from the top downTrickle Up theory: Fashion from the bottom upScarcity/Rarity: The desire for limited itemsConspicuous consumption: The obviousPolitical use of dress: Social movementsGender: Masculinity, femininity, androgynyBoxed case 4.1: Sensible British TasteBoxed case 4.2: La Sape Society SummaryKey TermsDiscussion questionsLearning activitiesNotesFurther reading5. Fashion and CultureZeitgeist: Sign of the timesSpatial diffusion: Fashion on the moveCultural identity: Race, ethnicity, and hybridityStyle tribes: Fashion from the streetBoxed case 5.1 Hate coutureSummaryKey TermsDiscussion questionsLearning activitiesNotesFurther reading6. ConclusionConsuming fashion: Selecting, purchasing, disposingOne phenomenon, many theoriesWhat is fashion? A paradoxSummaryKey TermsDiscussion questionsLearning activitiesFurther readingBibliographyIndex

[Praise for the first edition]Brings a breath of fresh air to fashion theory. This book puts together a collection of insights and approaches that will facilitate the student’s creative thinking process and their capacity to develop keys to solve problems.