Handbook of Museum Textiles, Volume 2

Seiko Jose is a scientist at Central Sheep and Wool Research Institute, Avikanagar, Rajasthan, India. He has more than 16 years of experience in textiles of which 7 years in the industry and 9 years in research. He has extensive experience in cotton, silk, and linen processing industries as well as natural and synthetic dyes. Since 2013, he has handled many natural fibers like wool, jute, pineapple leaf fiber, coir, ramie, etc. He contributed to more than 40 international peer-reviewed research papers and 11 book chapters.Sabu Thomas, PhD, is the Vice-Chancellor of Mahathma Gandhi University, Kottayam, Kerala, India. He is a fellow of the Royal Society of Chemistry and has been ranked no.5 in India with regard to the number of publications. Prof. Thomas’s research group specializes in the areas of polymers, natural fiber, biocomposites, sorption and diffusion, interpenetrating polymer systems, recyclability and reuse of waste plastics and rubbers, elastomer crosslinking, dual porous nanocomposite scaffolds for tissue engineering, etc. He has published more than 1200 publications as well as over 150 books.Pintu Pandit, PhD, is an assistant professor in the Textile Design Department at the National Institute of Fashion Technology under the Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, Patna campus. He is a PhD (Tech.) and M.Tech. in Fibers and Textile Processing Technology from the Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai, India. He has published many research articles in SCI journals as well as edited 4 books with the Wiley-Scrivener imprint.Ritu Pandey, PhD, is an assistant professor at Chandra Shekhar Azad University of Agriculture & Technology (CSAUAT) Kanpur, India She has 25 years of teaching experience. She has published more than 35 research papers in various national and international journals and her specialist area is in flax.

• Preface xv1 Damage Caused by Physical and Chemical Agents and Their Prevention 1Suza Ahmed, Mohammad Mohsin Ul Hoque and Abubakar Siddik1.1 Introduction 11.2 Characteristics of Typical Museum Textiles 21.3 Agents Causing Damage to Textile Materials 21.4 Deterioration of Textiles by Mechanical Stresses 31.4.1 Dimensional Changes 41.4.2 Change in Modulus 41.5 Deterioration of Textiles by Light and Radiation 51.5.1 Deterioration of Textiles by Photochemical Tendering 51.5.2 Fading of Dyes 61.5.3 Accelerated Photochemical Tendering 61.5.4 Light Ageing 71.6 Deterioration of Textiles by Humidity and Temperature 71.6.1 Temperature 71.6.2 Relative Humidity 71.6.3 Fluctuating Humidity and Temperature 81.7 Deterioration by Acid, Alkali, and Water 81.8 Deterioration of Textiles by Gaseous and Solid Contaminants 81.8.1 Gaseous Contaminants 91.8.2 Particulate Contaminants 91.9 Deterioration of Textiles to Biological Agents 91.9.1 Insects and Pests 91.9.2 Mold 111.9.3 Source of Biological Agents 111.10 Cases of Damages in Museum Textiles 111.11 Other Factors Influencing the Damages to Textiles 131.11.1 Alienation 131.11.2 Fire 131.11.3 Theft or Vandalism 131.12 Avoiding Damages 131.12.1 Temperature and Humidity 131.12.2 Avoiding Damages Caused by Light and UV Radiation 141.12.2.1 Measuring Light and UV Levels 141.12.3 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pest 151.12.4 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pollutants 151.12.5 Avoiding Environmental Damages 151.13 Conservation of Museum Textiles 161.13.1 Moth Management 161.13.2 Integrated Pest Management 161.13.2.1 Monitoring the Collections 171.13.2.2 Insect Trapping 181.13.2.3 Traditional Method 181.13.2.4 Hygienic Control of Pests 181.13.2.5 Pest-Proofing 181.13.3 Laser Cleaning of Tarnished Silver and Copper Threads in Museum Textiles 191.14 Conclusion 19References 202 Biological Damage to Textiles and Prevention Methods 23Kurmo Konsa, Theodora Kormpaki and Janika Turu2.1 Introduction 232.2 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Microorganisms (Bacteria, Fungi) 252.2.1 Most Common Species of Microorganisms in Textile Collections 252.2.2 Deterioration Caused by Microorganisms 262.2.3 Methods of Examination and Identification of Microorganisms 272.3 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Insects 282.3.1 Most Common Species of Insects in Textile Collections 282.3.2 Deterioration Caused by Insects 292.3.3 Monitoring and Identification of Insects in Textile Collections 302.4 The Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles 302.4.1 Prevention Methods 312.4.1.1 Construction Aspects 312.4.1.2 Storage Conditions 312.4.1.3 Storage 322.4.1.4 Room Monitoring 322.4.2 Remediation Methods 332.4.2.1 Low Temperatures (Freezing) 342.4.2.2 High Temperatures (Heating) 342.4.2.3 Gamma Radiation 342.4.2.4 Modified Atmospheres 352.4.2.5 Mechanical Removal 352.4.3 Chemical Control Methods 352.4.4 New Methods for the Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles 362.5 Biological and Chemical Risk Factors in the Preservation and Conservation of Textiles 372.6 Conclusion 37References 383 Microscopy of Historical Textiles 45Hana Lukesova3.1 Introduction 453.2 Optical Microscopy 463.2.1 Stereomicroscopes 463.2.1.1 Textile Techniques 473.2.1.2 Finishing 473.2.1.3 Repairs and Changes 483.2.1.4 Reflected Light Microscopy 483.2.2 Transmitted White Light and Polarized Light Microscopy 483.2.2.1 Transmitted White Light Microscopy 483.2.2.2 Polarized Light Microscopy 493.2.2.3 Fiber Identification 503.2.2.4 Finishing 513.2.2.5 Microbiological Attack 523.2.3 Digital Microscopy 523.3 Electron Microscopy 533.3.1 Scanning Electron Microscopy 533.3.1.1 Sample Preparation 533.3.1.2 Fiber Identification of Animal Hairs 533.3.1.3 Finishing 543.3.1.4 Dyeing 543.3.1.5 Quality 543.3.1.6 Degradation 553.3.2 Transmission Electron Microscopy 553.3.2.1 Sample Preparation 563.4 Conclusion 56References 574 Computational Structural Analysis 61Rana Al Ali, Mohamed Dallel, Boumediene Nedjar and Elhem Ghorbel4.1 Introduction 614.2 Mechanical Modeling of Textile 624.2.1 Microscopic Modeling of Textiles 634.2.2 Mesoscoping Modeling of Textiles 634.2.3 Macroscopic Modeling of Textiles 654.3 Historical Textiles’ Modeling 674.3.1 Creep in Structural Analysis 674.3.2 Finite Element Method 684.3.3 The Rheological Model 684.3.3.1 Kinematic Associated with Elastic Behavior 704.3.3.2 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Elastoplastic Branch [I] 714.3.3.3 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Viscoelastic Branch [II] 764.4 Application to Tapestries: Case Studies 764.4.1 Application 1: The Importance of Considering the Orthotropy 774.4.2 Application 2: Effect of Hanging System 784.4.3 Application 3: Presence of Tears and Slits 794.5 Conclusion 79Acknowledgement 80References 805 Characterization of Ancient Dyes and Prints 85Hannah Dewey, Meghan Lord and Januka Budhathoki-Uprety5.1 Introduction 855.2 Characterization Methods 875.2.1 Thin Layer Chromatography 875.2.2 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography 895.2.2.1 Dyestuff Analysis 905.2.2.2 Sample Preparation and Extraction Methods 905.2.2.3 Detectors 925.2.2.4 Limitations 935.2.3 Raman Spectroscopy 945.2.4 Infrared Spectroscopy 965.2.5 Fluorescence Spectroscopy 975.2.6 Fiber Optic Reflectance Spectroscopy 995.2.7 Mass Spectrometry 1005.3 Printing Techniques 1015.4 Conclusion 102References 1036 State-of-the-Art Characterization Methods for Historic Textiles 107Reza Assefi Pour, Mazeyar Parvinzadeh Gashti and Jinxin He6.1 Introduction 1086.2 Dating of Textiles 1086.2.1 Radiocarbon Dating 1096.2.1.1 Advantages and Limitations of Radiocarbon Dating 1096.2.1.2 Radiocarbon Dating Measurements 1106.2.1.3 The AMS Method of Radiocarbon Dating 1106.2.2 Micromechanical Method for Textiles Dating 1116.3 Molecular Analysis 1126.3.1 DNA Analysis 1126.3.2 Amino Acid Composition 1146.4 Proteomics 1156.4.1 Principle and Evaluation Process of Historic Textiles 1156.4.2 Why Proteomics Is Preferred 1176.5 Isotopic Tracing 1186.5.1 The Strontium Isotope Tracing System 1186.5.2 Benefits of Sr Isotope Tracing 1196.5.3 Limitations of Sr Isotope Tracing 1196.6 Thermal Analysis 1206.7 Optical Measurement Tests 1216.8 Analytical Methods for Dye Analysis 1226.8.1 Mass Spectrometry 1236.8.2 Chromatography 1236.8.3 Electrophoresis 1246.8.4 Microextraction 1246.9 Conclusion 126References 1267 Nondestructive Testing of Historic Textiles 131Anna Klisińska-Kopacz7.1 Introduction 1317.2 Sampling 1327.3 Analytical Investigation Techniques Using X-Rays 1337.3.1 X-Ray Radiography 1337.3.2 X-Ray Fluorescence 1357.3.3 Scanning Electron Microscopy with X-Ray Microanalysis 1377.3.4 X-Ray Diffraction 1397.4 Vibrational Spectroscopy 1407.4.1 Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy 1417.4.2 Raman Spectroscopy and Surface-Enhanced Raman Spectroscopy 1437.5 Case Studies 1447.5.1 17th Century Painted Silk Banner 1447.5.2 16th Century Carpet 146References 1488 NDT of Historic Textiles—Brief on Theory and Applications 151Anuradha Sankaran, Namitha Nandanan Nedumpillil and Seiko Jose8.1 Introduction 1518.2 X-Ray Fluorescence Spectroscopy 1528.3 Atomic Force Microscopy 1548.4 Raman Spectroscopy 1548.5 Computed Tomography 1568.6 X-Ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy 1578.7 Optical Microscope 1578.8 Scanning Electron Microscope and Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometer 1598.9 Carbon Dating 1618.10 X-Ray Diffraction 1628.11 Ultraviolet-Visible Spectroscopy 1638.12 Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy 1648.13 Conclusion 165References 1659 Non-Invasive Analytical Techniques for the Study of Dyes and Pigments in Historical Textiles 171Lavinia de Ferri and Fabrizio Andriulo9.1 Introduction 1719.2 Photographic Methods 1729.2.1 Infrared Reflectography (IRR) 1739.2.2 Visible-Induced Visible Luminescence/Fluorescence 1739.2.3 UV-Fluorescence (or UV-Luminescence) (UVF-UVL) and UV Reflectance (UVR) 1749.2.4 False-Color Imaging 1749.2.5 Multispectral/Hyperspectral Imaging 1759.3 Colorimetry 1769.4 Reflectance Spectroscopy 1779.5 Fluorimetry 1859.6 Diffuse Reflectance Infrared Fourier-Transform (DRIFT) Spectroscopy 1869.7 Matrix-Transfer Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) 187References 18710 Micro-Invasive Analytical Techniques for the Study of Dyes and Pigments in Historical Textiles 191Lavinia de Ferri and Fabrizio Andriulo10.1 Introduction 19110.2 Spectroscopic Methods 19210.2.1 Elemental Techniques: Energy Dispersive System/Energy Dispersive X-Ray (EDS/EDX) and Laser Induced Breakdown Spectroscopy (LIBS) 19210.2.2 Ultraviolet-Visible (UV-VIS) 19310.2.3 Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) and Fourier Transform (FT)-Raman 19510.2.4 Fourier Transform-Infrared (FT-IR) Spectroscopy 20110.3 Chromatographic Methods 20210.3.1 Paper and Thin Layer Chromatography (PC and TLC) 20210.3.2 High-Pressure/-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) 20410.3.3 Ultra High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (UHPLC) 20510.3.4 Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry 20610.4 Other Techniques 208References 20911 Destructive Analytical Techniques for the Analysis of Historic Textiles 215Namitha Nandanan Nedumpillil, Anuradha Sankaran, Seiko Jose, Sneha George and Sabu Thomas11.1 Introduction 21511.2 NMR Spectroscopy 21611.3 Mass Spectrometry 21711.4 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (SIMS) 21711.5 Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectroscopy 21811.6 Laser Ablation Inductively Coupled Plasma Time of Flight Mass Spectrometry (LA-ICP-TOF-MS) 21811.7 Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization-Time of Flight (MALDI-TOF) 21911.8 Transmission Electron Microscope 22111.9 Thermo Gravimetric Analysis 22111.10 DNA Analysis 22211.11 Amino Acid Composition 22311.12 Peptide Mass Fingerprinting 22311.13 Chromatographic Techniques 22511.14 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography 22611.15 Thin Layer Chromatography 22811.16 Gas Chromatography 22911.17 Inductively Coupled Plasma-Optical Emission Spectroscopy 22911.18 Conclusions 230References 23112 Assessment of Degradation, Repair, and Stabilization of Antique Textiles with a Focus on Tapestries 235Rosa Costantini12.1 Introduction 23512.2 Mechanical Damage Mechanisms in Historic Tapestries 23612.3 Conserving Tapestries 23712.3.1 Current Methods for Structural Support and Image Reintegration 23812.3.2 Current Display Methods 23912.4 Evaluating the Mechanical Behavior of Tapestries: Invasive Techniques 23912.4.1 Evaluating the Efficacy of Conservation Strategies Using Tensile Testing 24012.5 Evaluating the Mechanical Behavior of Tapestries: Noninvasive Techniques 24112.5.1 Evaluating the Efficacy of Conservation Strategies Using DIC 24212.6 Conclusions 243References 24313 Antique Tapestries and Carpets: A Multidisciplinary Experimental Research Method for Their Diagnosis and Dating 247Gianpaolo Rosati, Carol Monticelli, Matteo Tommasini, Chiara Zanchi and Alessandra Zanelli13.1 Introduction 24813.2 Antiques Textile Surfaces, Means of Cultural Testimony and Way of Improving the Comfort in Historical Buildings 24813.3 Recent Research and Case Studies on Ancient Carpets 25213.4 Recent Research and Case Studies on Ancient Tapestries 25513.5 IR Spectroscopy to the Molecular Wool Characterization: Implications for Dating Purposes 25813.6 Conclusion 262Acknowledgment 263References 26314 Scientific Study of Fibers and Natural Dyes Used in 19th Century Prayer Carpet From Jiwajirao Scindia Museum Gwalior, Using LC-MS and UV-VIS 267Md. Ali Nasir, Satish. C. Pandey and M.V. Nair14.1 Introduction 26714.2 Materials and Methods 26914.2.1 Preparation of Samples 26914.2.2 Instrumentation 26914.3 Extraction of Dyes 27014.3.1 Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS) 27014.3.2 UV Spectroscopic Measurements 27014.4 Result and Discussion 27014.4.1 Dyes Identified in 19th Century Carpet from Jiwaji Scindia Museum, Gwalior Sample 27114.4.2 Red Dye 27114.4.3 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 27114.4.4 Green Dye 27314.4.5 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 27514.4.6 Yellow Dye 27514.4.7 Black Dye 27614.4.8 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 27814.5 Future Scope and Studies 28014.6 Conclusion 280Acknowledgment 280References 28115 Analysis and Visualization of Historical Textiles for the Needs of Museum Conservation and Exhibition 283Maria Cybulska15.1 Introduction 28315.2 Deterioration of Textiles 28415.3 Methods of Analysis of Historical Textiles 28515.4 Analysis of Fibers 28515.5 Analysis of Threads 29015.6 Analysis of Woven and Other Textile Objects 29215.7 Identification of Dyes and Color Analysis 29315.8 Visualization and Virtual Reconstruction of Textiles 29415.9 Conclusion 299References 30016 Conservation of a Coptic Tapestry Fragment from Red Monastery Excavation 303Neven Fahim16.1 Introduction 30316.2 Documentation and Condition 30416.2.1 Description of Archaeological Object 30416.2.2 The Analytical Method and Technical Study 30516.2.3 Dating of the Object 30516.2.4 State of Deterioration 30516.3 Testing and Analysis 30716.3.1 Morphological Study 30716.3.2 Scanning Electron Microscope 30716.3.3 Fourier Transform Infrared Analysis 30716.3.4 Analysis of Color Values 30816.4 Results and Discussion 30816.4.1 Stereo Microscope 30816.4.2 Scanning Electron Microscope 30816.4.3 FTIR Analysis 31016.4.4 Colorimetric Measurements 31216.5 Treatment Methodology 31216.5.1 Humidification Process 31316.5.2 Testing the Acidity 31316.5.3 Cleaning Process 31316.5.3.1 Chemical Cleaning 31316.5.3.2 Wet Cleaning 31316.5.4 Preparation of Foam and Textile Support 31416.5.5 Permanent Fixation 31416.6 Conclusion 315Acknowledgment 315References 31617 Synthetic Coatings in Fashion Collections: Identification and Preservation Issues 319S. França de Sá, K. Verkens, A. Rizzo, G. Petersen, S. Scaturro, I. Correia and M. Carita17.1 Introduction 32017.2 Conservation Challenges in Fashion Museum Collections Holding Polyurethane and Plasticised Poly(Vinyl Chloride) Coatings 32117.2.1 The Entrance of TPU and p-PVC in Fashion 32117.2.2 Degradation of TPU and p-PVC 32217.2.3 Issues and Recommendations for the Preservation of TPU and p-PVC Coatings in Museum Collections 32217.2.4 Case Studies From MUDE, MET and MoMu Collections 32417.2.4.1 TPU Coatings 32717.2.4.2 p-PVC Coatings 33217.2.4.3 Mixed Compositions 33517.2.4.4 Main Considerations 33617.3 Experimental 33717.3.1 Met Museum 33717.4 Damage Atlas 33717.5 Conclusions 34117.6 Future Research 341References 34218 Nanotechnology-Based Interventions in Museum Textiles 345Ankita Shroff, Anjali Karolia and Patricia I. Dolez18.1 Introduction 34618.2 Applications of Nanotechnology in Museum Textiles 34818.2.1 Diagnosis of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 34918.2.2 Cleaning of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 35018.2.3 Consolidation and Protection of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 35218.3 Benefits and Opportunities for Future Developments in Preservative and Conservative Practices 35418.4 Conclusion 356Acknowledgments 357References 35719 Digital Technologies and Virtual Museums—Novel Approach 361Kanika Sachdeva and Harshita Chaudhary19.1 Introduction 36119.2 History of Digital Technologies in Museums 36219.3 Why Do We Need Digital Technologies in Museums? 36319.4 Digital Technologies—Tools and Techniques 36419.4.1 Multimedia Materials 36419.4.2 The World Wide Web 36419.4.3 Computer-Mediated Conferencing 36419.4.4 Presentation Technologies 36519.4.5 Simulations and Models 36519.4.6 Microworlds and Games 36519.4.7 Streaming Digital Audio and Video 36519.4.8 Visualization-Based Utilities 36519.5 Applications of Digital Technologies in the Museum 36819.5.1 Offline Data Banks Like CD-ROMS 36819.5.2 Websites 36919.5.3 Online Databases (National Digital Repository for Museums of India) 37019.5.4 Virtual Museums 37019.5.5 Interactive Exhibition Resources/Fusion Exhibitions (Sardar Patel Exhibition) 37219.5.6 Google Arts and Culture App 37219.5.7 Roboguides 37319.5.8 BYOD in Museums 37319.6 Pros and Cons of Digital Technologies as Compared to Traditional Exhibitions 37419.6.1 Pros 37419.6.2 Cons 37619.7 Conclusion 376References 377Index 379