Handbook of Museum Textiles, Volume 1

Seiko Jose is a scientist at Central Sheep and Wool Research Institute, Avikanagar, Rajasthan, India, and specializes in textile chemistry. He has more than 16 years of experience in textiles of which 7 years in the industry and 9 years in research. He has extensive experience in cotton, silk, and linen processing industries as well as natural and synthetic dyes. Since 2013, he has handled many natural fibers like wool, jute, pineapple leaf fiber, coir, ramie, etc. He contributed to more than 40 international peer-reviewed research papers and 11 book chapters.Sabu Thomas, PhD, is the Vice-Chancellor of Mahathma Gandhi University, Kottayam, Kerala, India. He is a fellow of the Royal Society of Chemistry and has been ranked no.5 in India with regard to the number of publications. Prof. Thomas’s research group specializes in the areas of polymers, natural fiber, biocomposites, sorption and diffusion, interpenetrating polymer systems, recyclability and reuse of waste plastics and rubbers, elastomer crosslinking, dual porous nanocomposite scaffolds for tissue engineering, etc. He has published more than 1200 publications as well as over 150 books.Pintu Pandit, PhD, is an assistant professor in the Textile Design Department at the National Institute of Fashion Technology under the Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, Patna campus. He is a PhD (Tech.) and M.Tech. in Fibers and Textile Processing Technology from the Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai, India. He has published many research articles in SCI journals as well as edited 4 books with the Wiley-Scrivener imprint.Ritu Pandey, PhD, is an assistant professor at Chandra Shekhar Azad University of Agriculture & Technology (CSAUAT) Kanpur, India She has 25 years of teaching experience. She has published more than 35 research papers in various national and international journals and her specialist area is in flax.Vandana Gupta, PhD, is a Professor and Head of Parul Institute of Design & Fine Arts at Parul University, Vadodara, Gujarat. She has worked in reputed fashion and design institutions and was awarded for her academic and administrative contributions. She has several research, review, and book chapter publications in the areas of sustainability, smart textiles, natural dyes, antibacterial and UV protective finishes, museums, and textile design.

• Preface xix1 Textile Museums: Its Importance, Objectives and Functions 1Vandana Gupta and Mangesh S. Manekar1.1 Introduction 11.2 Museum Definition and Its Existence 21.3 Textile Museums and Their History 41.4 Importance of Textile Museums 61.4.1 Connective Value 61.4.2 Collective Value 71.4.3 Educative Value 101.4.4 Economic Value 111.5 Objectives of Textile Museum 141.6 Function of Textile Museum 141.7 Textile Museum and Their Future Prospects 161.8 Conclusion 16References 162 Textile Intangible Cultural Heritage of the World 19Ritu Pandey, Vandana Gupta, Pintu Pandit, Kumar Rohit and Suruchi Pandey2.1 Introduction 192.1.1 Ancient Textiles of the World 202.2 Ancient Textiles of the World: Techniques and Historical Perspective 242.2.1 Ancient Heritage Textiles—Asia and Australia 242.2.1.1 Chinese Textiles 242.2.1.2 Japanese Textiles 242.2.1.3 Indian Textile 262.2.1.4 Turkish Textiles 272.2.1.5 Persian Rugs 272.2.2 African Textile 282.2.3 Scandinavian Textile Design 292.2.4 American Textiles 302.3 Role of Museum: Textile as a Part of Heritage and Culture 322.4 Marketing Strategies for Museums and Conservation 332.5 Conclusion 35References 353 Important Woven Textile Specimens in World Museums 39Karthika Audinet3.1 Introduction 393.2 Methodology 403.3 Prehistoric Textiles 423.3.1 Textile Specimen 1.3.1 443.3.2 Textile Specimen 1.3.2 443.3.3 Textile Specimen 1.3.3 453.3.4 Textile Specimen 1.3.4 453.3.5 Textile Specimen 1.3.5 463.3.6 Textile Specimen 1.3.6 463.4 Textiles from Peru 463.4.1 Textile Specimen 1.4.1 483.4.2 Textile Specimen 1.4.2 483.4.3 Textile Specimen 1.4.3 493.4.4 Textile Specimen 1.4.4 493.4.5 Textile Specimen 1.4.5 493.4.6 Textile Specimen 1.4.6 503.4.7 Textile Specimen 1.4.7 503.5 Chinese Textiles 503.5.1 Textile Specimen 1.5.1 523.5.2 Textile Specimen 1.5.2 523.5.3 Textile Specimen 1.5.3 533.5.4 Textile Specimen 1.5.4 543.5.5 Textile Specimen 1.5.5 543.5.6 Textile Specimen 1.5.6 553.5.7 Textile Specimen 1.5.7 553.6 Textiles from the Indian Subcontinent 563.6.1 Textile Specimen 1.6.1 573.6.2 Textile Specimen 1.6.2 583.6.3 Textile Specimen 1.6.3 583.6.4 Textile Specimen 1.6.4 583.6.5 Textile Specimen 1.6.5 593.6.6 Textile Specimen 1.6.6 593.6.7 Textile Specimen 1.6.7 593.7 Textiles from Sudan, Egypt, Mali, and Ghana (North and West African Textiles) 603.7.1 Textile Specimen 1.7.1 613.7.2 Textile Specimen 1.7.2 623.7.3 Textile Specimen 1.7.3 633.7.4 Textile Specimen 1.7.4 633.8 Textiles from Japan 643.8.1 Textile Specimen 1.8.1 653.8.2 Textile Specimen 1.8.2 653.8.3 Textile Specimen 1.8.3 663.8.4 Textile Specimen 1.8.4 663.8.5 Textile Specimen 1.8.5 663.8.6 Textile Specimen 1.8.6 673.9 Textiles from Iran and Central Asia 673.9.1 Textile Specimen 1.9.1 693.9.2 Textile Specimen 1.9.2 693.9.3 Textile Specimen 1.9.3 693.9.4 Textile Specimen 1.9.4 703.9.5 Textile Specimen 1.9.5 703.10 Textiles from Italy and France 713.10.1 Textile Specimen 1.10.1 733.10.2 Textile Specimen 1.10.2 733.10.3 Textile Specimen 1.10.3 733.10.4 Textile Specimen 1.10.4 733.11 Conclusion: Toward an Understanding of the Historic Foundations of Woven Structures 74References 77List of Museums 82Glossary 834 Types of Conservation of Textiles in the Museum: Their Importance and Scope 87K. B. Binita and B. Sunita4.1 Introduction 874.2 Importance of Conservation 884.3 Principles of Conservation 894.3.1 Determining the Need and Laying the Foundation for Conservation 894.3.2 The Conservation Assessment and Process 894.3.3 Obtaining a Conservation Assessment 894.3.4 Selecting an Assessor or Conservator 894.3.5 The Assessment as a Planning Tool 904.3.6 Conservation Collection Condition Survey 904.3.7 Object Treatment 904.3.8 Risk Assessment and Management 904.4 Types of Textile Articles Conserved 904.5 Methods of Conservation 914.5.1 Preventive Conservation 914.5.1.1 Climate 924.5.1.2 Light 924.5.1.3 Insects 934.5.1.4 Microorganisms 934.5.1.5 Dust, Soil, and Other Contaminants 944.5.1.6 Disaster 944.5.2 Curative/Interventive Conservation 954.5.2.1 Surface Cleaning 954.5.2.2 Vacuuming 954.5.2.3 Wet Cleaning 954.5.2.4 Solvent or Dry Cleaning 964.5.2.5 Stabilization 964.6 Storage, Display, and Handling of Museum Textiles 964.7 Scope of Conservation 974.7.1 Education and Knowledge Dissemination 974.7.2 Lecture, Seminar, Workshops, and Research 984.7.3 Photography and Publication 984.8 New Approaches in Conservation 984.9 Conclusion 99References 99Webliography 1005 Fashion and Textile Museums Across the Globe 101Arpana Kamboj and Surabhi Mahajan5.1 Introduction 1015.2 Victoria and Albert Museum, London 1035.2.1 History 1035.2.2 Collection 1045.3 Fashion Museum, Bath, UK 1045.3.1 History 1045.3.2 Collection 1055.4 Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City 1065.4.1 History 1065.4.2 Collection 1075.5 Musée De La Mode Et Du Textile, France 1085.5.1 History 1085.5.2 Collection 1095.6 Palais Galliera, France 1095.6.1 History 1105.6.2 Collection 1105.6.2.1 Eighteenth Century Dress Office 1105.6.2.2 Nineteenth Century Ensembles Division 1115.6.2.3 Fashion of the Principal Half of 20th Century 1115.6.2.4 Haute Couture 1115.6.2.5 Contemporary Office 1115.6.2.6 Extras Office 1115.7 Kyoto Costume Institute, Japan 1115.7.1 History 1125.7.2 Collection 1125.8 Museum of Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA 1135.8.1 History 1135.8.2 Collection 1145.9 Museo Del Traje, Spain 1155.9.1 History 1155.9.2 Collection 1165.10 Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, California 1165.10.1 History 1175.10.2 Collection 1175.11 Kent State University Museum, USA 1175.11.1 History 1185.11.2 Collection 1195.12 Conclusion 119References 1196 Documentation of Museum Textiles 123Simmi Bhagat and Radhana Raheja6.1 Introduction 1236.2 Functions of Documentation 1246.3 Features of Documentation System 1256.4 Collection Management Policy 1266.5 Assessment Standards 1286.5.1 Collection Assessment 1286.5.2 Assessment of Objects 1296.6 Types of Documentation 1306.6.1 Written Description 1306.6.2 Photographic Records 1316.7 Formats of Documentation 1366.7.1 Styles of Written Documentation 1366.7.2 Manual and Digitized Documentation 1366.8 Case Study 1376.9 Conclusion 141References 1417 Ideal Storage Conditions for Museum Textiles 143Simmi Bhagat and Kanika Sachdeva7.1 Introduction 1437.2 Published Standards in Museum Storage 1447.3 Storage Design and Architecture 1457.3.1 Museum Storage Building and Space Allocation 1467.3.2 Building Monitoring and Maintenance 1467.4 Environmental Conditions 1477.4.1 Temperature and Relative Humidity 1477.4.2 Light 1487.5 Storage Techniques 1487.5.1 Accession and Labeling 1497.5.2 Flat Storage 1497.5.3 Rolled Storage 1507.5.4 Hanging Storage 1517.5.5 Special Storage 1527.6 Safety Systems 1537.6.1 Location, Structural, and Physical Protection 1537.6.2 Perimeter Alarms 1537.6.3 Invigilation 1547.6.4 Key Security 1547.7 Disaster Handling 1547.7.1 Protecting from Fire 1557.7.2 Protecting from Floods 1557.7.3 Protecting from Pests 1567.7.4 Day-to-Day Maintenance 1567.8 Managing Dust and Dirt 1577.9 Pollutants 1577.10 Conclusion 159References 1598 Tools and Methods for Handling and Storage of Museum Textiles 161Pratikhya Badanayak, Seiko Jose, Ragini Dubey and Ritu Pandey8.1 Introduction 1618.2 Care, Maintenance, and Handling of Museum Textiles 1628.2.1 General Storage Factors 1628.2.2 General Guideline in Handling 1638.3 Ideal Conditions, Temperature, Humidity 1638.4 Storage Units 1638.5 Storage Materials 1648.6 Tools Used in Maintenance of Museum Textiles 1648.6.1 Equipping the Workspace 1648.6.2 Housekeeping 1648.6.2.1 Cleaning the Collection and Environment 1668.6.2.2 Basic and Best Practices for Checking and Monitoring in Museum 1668.6.3 Materials and Supplies 1678.6.3.1 Handling 1678.6.4 Packing and Unpacking 1688.6.5 Moving 1708.6.6 Rolling and Unrolling 1708.7 Labeling 1708.8 Cleaning 1718.9 Dealing with Separations 1718.10 Tools Used for Displaying Museum Textiles 1728.10.1 Showcases and Galleries 1728.10.2 Frames 1728.10.3 Mannequins 1738.10.4 Hangers 1748.11 Handling During Transportation 1758.11.1 By Road 1758.11.2 By Rail 1768.11.3 By Sea 1768.11.4 By Air 1768.12 Handling Techniques and Conservation Practices of Ancient Textiles in Museums 1778.12.1 Egyptian Shroud 1778.12.2 Jordanian Belt 1778.12.3 Silk Textile 1778.12.4 Coptic Tapestry 1788.13 Conclusions 178References 1789 Roles and Responsibilities of Museum Professionals 181Kanika Sachdeva9.1 Introduction 1819.2 History of Museums Professionals Training in India 1829.3 Roles in a Textile Museum 1829.3.1 Conservator 1859.3.2 Conservation Scientist 1859.3.3 Curator 1869.3.4 Collections Manager 1879.3.5 Registrar/Documentalist 1879.3.6 Historian 1889.3.7 Exhibition Coordinator/Designer 1889.3.8 Museum Education Officer 1899.3.9 Photographer 1899.3.10 Information Technologist 1909.3.11 Health and Safety Officer 1909.3.12 Security Officer 1919.4 Conclusion 191References 19110 Ancient Weaving and Dyeing Techniques 193Hannah Dewey, Meghan Lord, Seonyoung Youn, Januka Budhathoki-Uprety and Kavita Mathur10.1 Introduction to Weaving 19310.2 Ancient Weaving by Geographical Region 19410.2.1 In the Middle East and Central Eurasia 19410.2.2 In Egypt 19510.2.3 In Greece, Italy, and Romania 19610.2.4 In India 19810.2.5 In Southeast Asia and China 19910.2.6 In The Americas 20010.3 Conclusion on Weaving Techniques 20310.4 Introduction to Dyes and Dyeing Technologies 20310.5 Ancient Dyes, Pigments, and Dyeing Technologies 20310.5.1 Indigoids (Indigo and Tyrian Purple) 20310.5.2 Quinonoids (Madder) 20410.5.3 Carotenoids (Saffron) 20410.5.4 Flavonoids 20510.5.5 Dihydropyran (Brazilwood and Logwood) 20510.5.6 Tannins 20510.6 Conclusion 205References 20511 Armours: Ancient Metallic Textiles 209Ritu Pandey, Ragini Dubey, Pintu Pandit, Suruchi Pandey, Mukesh Kumar Sinha and Amarish Dubey11.1 Introduction 20911.2 Parts of Armour and Accessories 21011.2.1 Helmet 21011.2.2 Coif 21011.2.3 Ventail 21311.2.4 Mail 21311.2.5 Hauberk 21311.2.6 Gauntlet and Pauldron 21311.2.7 Sabatons and Greaves 21411.3 Armour Designs 21511.4 Armour Materials 21511.5 Metallic Costume of King Tutankhamen 21711.6 Conclusion 217References 21812 Textile Conservation in India: A Case Series 219Deepshikha Kalsi, Elizabeth-Anne Haldane and Lynda Hillyer12.1 Introduction 21912.2 Internship Training in Textile Conservation at the V&A 22012.2.1 Condition Assessment 22112.2.2 Case Study: Conservation of a Painted and Dyed Cotton Chintz Appliqué Panel 22112.2.3 Condition Assessment 22212.2.4 Conservation Treatment and Mounting 22212.3 Setting Up a Textile Conservation Studio in India 22412.4 Conservation of an 19th Century Jama 22512.5 Case Study—Conservation of a Military Frock Coat 22712.5.1 Historical Context 22712.5.2 Documentation of Construction and Condition Assessment 22812.5.3 Conservation Treatment 22912.5.4 Customizing the Mannequin Mount 23212.6 Developing Display and Mounting Solutions for Flat Textiles and Costumes for the Special Exhibition PRA-KASHI Silk, Gold and Silver from the City of Lights at the National Museum, New Delhi 23212.7 Technical Analysis and Documentation 23312.8 Training and Outreach 23412.8.1 Case Study—Indian Museum, Kolkata 23512.8.2 Case Study—The Registry of Sarees, Bangalore 23512.9 Conclusion 236Acknowledgments 237References 23713 Symbolism and Conservation of Indigenous African Textiles for Museums 239Raphael Kanyire Seidu, Ebenezer Kofi Howard, Edward Apau and Benjamin Eghan13.1 Introduction 23913.2 Types of Indigenous African Textiles 24013.2.1 African Weave Traditions 24013.2.1.1 Smock Weaves/Fugu 24013.2.1.2 Aso-Oke 24213.2.1.3 Kente 24313.2.1.4 Kete 24413.2.1.5 Akwete 24513.2.1.6 Berber Cloth 24613.2.1.7 Shuka Cloth 24713.2.1.8 Kuba Raffia Cloth 24713.2.2 African Dye Traditions 24813.2.2.1 Adire 24813.2.2.2 Ukara 25013.2.2.3 Mud Cloth 25113.2.3 African Print Traditions 25313.2.3.1 Adinkra Cloth 25313.2.3.2 Kanga Cloth 25513.2.3.3 Shweshwe 25613.2.3.4 Ankara or African Wax Prints (West Africa) or Kitenge (East Africa) 25613.2.4 Other African Traditions 25713.2.4.1 Bark Cloth 25713.2.4.2 Fon Appliqué Cloth 25813.3 Indigenous African Textiles Techniques 25913.4 Museums in African 25913.4.1 Challenges of Museums in Africa 26013.4.2 Contribution of Technology for African Museums 26013.5 Conclusion 261References 261Appendix (Figure sources) 26514 Conservation of Textile Immemorial: The Fading Past of Uttarakhand Museums 267Pooja Singh and Alka Goel14.1 Introduction 26714.2 Materials and Methods 26914.2.1 Selection of Locale 26914.2.2 Tool Preparation and Data Collection 26914.2.3 Data Collection 26914.2.4 Statistical Analysis of the Data 27014.2.4.1 Weighted Mean Score 27014.3 Results and Discussion 27014.3.1 General Information About the Museums 27014.3.1.1 The Number of People Who Work at the Museums that Have Been Chosen 27014.3.1.2 Conservation Laboratories 27114.3.1.3 Acquisition of Textile Antiquities 27212.3.1.4 Ageing of Textile Articles Placed in Different Museums 27414.3.1.5 Air Circulation Facilities in Museums 27414.3.1.6 Protective Measures Used to Protect the Windows/ Ventilators From Sunlight and Dust 27514.3.1.7 Methods Used for Identification of Fibers 27614.3.1.8 The Details of Temperature and Relative Humidity Ranges in a Variety of Museums 27614.3.2 Types of Display Techniques Used for Textile Antiquities 27614.3.2.1 Labeling Methods Carried Out for the Displayed Artifacts 27914.3.3 Storage Equipments Used in Selected Museums 28014.3.4 The Collection of Textile Artifacts Collections in Various Museums of Uttarakhand 28114.3.4.1 Details of Stored Textile Materials 28114.3.4.2 Govind Ballabh Pant Museum, Almora 28114.3.4.3 Tribal Museum, Munsyari 28214.3.4.4 Kumaon Regiment Museum, Ranikhet 28214.3.4.5 Lok Sangrah, Folk Culture Museum, Bhimtal 28314.3.4.6 Jim Corbett Museum 28314.3.4.7 Gurney House Museum, Nainital 28414.3.5 Various Methods of Prevention Used in Various Selected Museums 28414.3.5.1 Covering Materials Used for Various Artifacts Displayed in Selected Museums 28514.3.5.2 Special Kind of Lighting System in the Museum to Protect the Textiles/Garments From Fading/Ageing 28614.3.5.3 Touching on Museum Antiquities 28714.3.6 Conservation Techniques Used in the Museum 28714.3.6.1 Pretreatments Given to Textile Antiquities and Display Boards 28714.3.6.2 Methods of Reinforcing the Deteriorated Textile Antiquities 28814.3.6.3 Backing Material Used in Conservation of Museum Textiles 28814.4 Conclusion 289References 28915 The Conservation and Display of Indian Textiles at the Victoria and Albert Museum 291Elizabeth-Anne Haldane, Lynda Hillyer and Deepshikha Kalsi15.1 Introduction to the V&A and the Indian Textile Collections 29115.2 Care of Collections 29415.3 Conservation 29515.3.1 Principles of Conservation 29515.3.2 Assessing Condition, Causes of Deterioration 29515.3.3 Preventive Conservation 29715.3.4 Understanding the Object—Context and Scientific Investigation 29715.4 Object Treatment 30015.4.1 Object Treatment—Cleaning 30015.4.2 Surface Cleaning and Humidification 30115.4.3 Wet Cleaning 30315.4.4 Solvent Cleaning 30515.4.5 Stabilization and Support 30615.5 Display 30815.6 Conclusion 312Acknowledgments 312References 31316 Between Science and Art: Activities of the Natural Dyeing Laboratory 315Katarzyna Schmidt-Przewoźna16.1 Introduction 31516.2 Promotion of Antique Dyes, Pigments, and Prints 32016.2.1 Projects 32016.2.2 Workshop and Exhibitions 32116.2.3 Color Catalog of Ancient Dye and Its Reproduction 32316.2.4 Reconstruction of Ancient Dyeing Techniques 32316.3 Analysis of Antique Polish Kontush Sash Dyeing Material: A Case Study 32416.4 Conclusion 325Acknowledgment 326References 32617 Visitor Interactions and Museum Textiles 327Kanika Sachdeva and Divya Singhal Gupta17.1 Introduction 32717.2 Textile Exhibitions—Challenges in Display 32817.2.1 Display Method 32817.2.1.1 Open Display or Display Cases 32917.2.1.2 Display Design 33017.2.1.3 Points to be Considered While Planning a Textile Display 33217.2.1.4 Level of Interaction Between the Visitors and the Objects on Display 33317.2.2 Display Lighting 33417.2.2.1 Hacks for Appropriate Lighting of Textile Exhibitions in Museums 33517.3 Exhibition Protocols Followed by the Museum 33517.3.1 Safety Guidelines—Visitor Safety, Conduct and Access 33517.3.2 Safety of Museum Artifacts 33617.3.3 Let Us Look at Some Examples of the Protocols Followed by the Museums and the Changes that Have Taken Place After the Pandemic 33617.4 Photography and Memorabilia 33617.5 Access Guidelines for Museum Storage 33717.6 An Ideal Textile Exhibition 33817.6.1 Case Study 1 33817.6.2 Case Study 2 33817.7 Conclusion 339References 33918 Educational Value of Clothing and Textile Museums 341Sara Marcketti and Jennifer Gordon18.1 Introduction 34118.2 Importance of Conservation in Textiles and Clothing Collections 34218.3 Frameworks for Material Culture Analysis in the Learning Process 34418.4 The Value of Collections to Students’ Education 34418.4.1 The Collection at Iowa State University 34518.5 Taxonomy of Significant Learning and Collections 34518.5.1 Foundational Knowledge 34618.5.2 Application 34718.5.3 Integration 34818.5.4 Human Dimensions 34918.5.5 Caring 35018.5.6 Learning How to Learn 35118.6 Conclusion 352References 35219 Career in Textile Museum 355Maanasaa Sethuraman, Suruchi Pandey and Ritu Pandey19.1 Introduction 35519.2 Sources of Textile Museum Collections 35619.3 Scope of Careers in Textile Museum 35819.3.1 Job Opportunities 35819.3.1.1 Public Sector 35919.3.1.2 Private Sector 36119.3.1.3 Opportunities Offshores 36219.3.2 Changing Hiring Trends 36219.3.2.1 Work-Life Balance in Careers in Museum Textile 36319.3.2.2 Job Description 36319.4 Glimpses of Work in Progress on Museum Textile 36619.5 Sourcing for Talent at Textile Museums 36919.5.1 Private Job Sites 36919.5.2 Museum Websites 37019.5.3 Consultant Hiring 37119.5.4 Social Media 37119.5.5 Newspaper Advertisement 37119.5.6 Word of Mouth 37219.5.7 Campus Hiring 37219.6 Educational Opportunities 37419.6.1 School or Pre-University Level 37419.6.2 University Level (Under Graduation) 37419.6.3 Postgraduation 37419.7 Sample Organization Structure 37519.8 Limitations and Challenges in the Field of Textile Museum 37519.9 Conclusion 375Acknowledgment 379References 379Index 383