Fashionable Masculinities

VICKI KARAMINAS is Professor of Fashion at Massey University New Zealand and Honorary Research Fellow at the Centre of Visual Arts, the University of Melbourne, Australia. She edits and sits on a number of editorial and advisory boards and is the Chair of Trustees for the Association of Dress Historians and the founding President of the Popular Culture Association of Australia and New Zealand.ADAM GECZY is an artist and writer who teaches at the University of Sydney. His exhibitions across Australia and Europe have received considerable critical acclaim and his work appears in numerous national collections. With some twenty books, in 2009 he won the Choice award for best academic title in art. PAMELA CHURCH GIBSON is Reader in Film & Cultural Studies at the London College of Fashion and has published extensively on film, fashion, and heritage. She is the founder and Principal Editor of the journal Film, Fashion & Consumption, and Principal Editor of the book series, Films and Fashions at Edinburgh University Press. Her articles on film and on fashion can be found in various peer-reviewed journals, and her books include: The Oxford Guide to Film Studies, with John Hill, Fashion Cultures, with Stella Bruzzi, and Fashion and Celebrity Culture.

• ForewordChristopher BrewardIntroductionVicki Karaminas, Adam Geczy, and Pamela Church Gibson1 Harry Styles: Fashion’s Gender ChangelingVicki Karaminas and Justine Taylor2 Puff Daddy’s Mogul Style: Penis in Furs or Surface Tensions?Nigel Lezama3 Daddy Cool: Aging Black Male Bodies and Embodied Stylin’Michael McMillan4 Unisex and Individuation: Contemporary Russian Fashion and Men’s (Self)-StylingVlad Strukov5 Spectacularizing the Male Body: Fashionable Physiques in the Age of InstagramJay McCauley Bowstead6 One Sexy Daddy: Desirable Dad “Bods” and the Popular Romance NovelJonathan A. Allan7 The Bodyclad Cinematic Hero: Aging, Masculinity, and Technological MediationAdam Geczy8 The Rise of the Bottom: Counterdiscourse to Challenge Heteronormativity within the Gay CommunityAndrew Reilly9 Unfashionable Goodes: The Wrong Kind of Blak and the Scandalization of Indigenous Masculinities in Settler-AustraliaBarry Judd and Nikita Vanderbyl10 The Rough and the Smooth Revisited: Masculinity, Fashion, and James Bond for a New MillenniumPamela Church Gibson11 “Coming Out” and Fitting In: The Role of Dress and Style in Fashioning Gay Men’s Identities in the New MillenniumShaun Cole12 Crip Masculinities and Everyday Dress: Intersectional Narratives of Imagination, Access, and OwnershipBen Barry13 Dandyism Revisited: From the English Gent to the SapeurOlga Vainshtein14 Beard-Grooming Brands and Products as Representations of MasculinityVictor Vey15 Gent-rifying the Stylish Neighborhood: An Examination of Retail Accommodation for the Asian Urban Male ConsumerAnne Peirson-Smith and Jennifer Craik16 A Vision of a Modern DandyJulio MompÓ with Olga VainshteinAcknowledgmentsBibliographyNotes on ContributorsIndex

"It is not just queers, pimp daddies, and lumbersexuals who rendezvous on this volume; it is a whole spectrum of masculinities: blak-indigenous men, gym bros, ageing action heroes, retro hipsters, Harry, and gen-Z influencers. Masculinities are legion: fluid, complex, and poised to forever resist essentializing binaries and gender signifiers. This timely volume, written by top experts in the field, offers a thorough insight into the design, advertising, retail, and consumption of fashionable masculinities."- José Blanco F. (Chair of Fashion, Dominican University, Illinois) "This text represents the future of men’s fashion studies. It symbolizes a pivotal turn for understanding this discipline. The contributors take us on a journey through men’s fashion from the beginning into contemporary style. This book is crucial for anyone interested in men’s appearances, fashion, and lifestyles." - Joseph H. Hancock, II (professor, Drexel University, Philadelphia) "Contributors include some of the best minds in their field ... and the book’s 16 chapters are accessible to anyone interested in gender and clothing. ...Fashionable Masculinities picks apart our understanding of manhood, showing how 'masculinity has become a style that can be worn, assumed - or abjured.'" - Derek Guy (Vulture.com & New York Magazine)