NATHALIE JOLY is a senior lecturer in sociology at the Institute Agro Dijon and an associated researcher at the French National Institute for Research on Agriculture, Food and Environment (INRAE). FEDERICO D'ONOFRIO is Associate Professor at the Institute for Social and Economic History of the University of Vienna. FEDERICO D'ONOFRIO is Associate Professor at the Institute for Social and Economic History of the University of Vienna. NATHALIE JOLY is a senior lecturer in sociology at the Institute Agro Dijon and an associated researcher at the French National Institute for Research on Agriculture, Food and Environment (INRAE).