Everyday Fashion

Bethan Bide is Lecturer in Design and Cultural Theory at the University of Leeds. She is a design historian with a particular interest in fashion cities, the production and consumption of ready-to-wear clothing, and the role of fashion in museums. Bethan previously worked as a producer of comedy programmes for BBC Radio 4. Jade Halbert is Lecturer in Design Studies at the University of Leeds, UK. She is a historian of the fashion industry and has published on black economies, cultural economies of knitting, and the treatment of dressmakers in the 19th century. She was an AHRC/BBC New Generation Thinker in 2019.Liz Tregenza is a fashion and business historian. She is currently a lecturer at London College of Fashion and a Business of Fashion, Textiles and Technology Research Fellow at the Victoria and Albert Museum, UK. Liz also runs her own vintage business and has written two books on vintage fashion.

• List of FiguresList of TablesList of ContributorsAcknowledgments 1. Introduction: Negotiating the EverydayBethan Bide, Jade Halbert and Liz Tregenza2. Counterfeit Fashion: An Eighteenth-Century Printed Silk Handkerchief John Styles Part I: Approaches to the Study of Everyday Fashion3. Whalebone and Fashion in Seventeenth Century England: Changing Consumer Culture, Trade and InnovationSarah Bendall 4. Sophie Rabin’s BlouseLucie Whitmore5. ‘In Want of a Capable Woman’: Rediscovering Blouse Designers in the Wholesale, Ready-Made Trade in Britain Through Material Culture (1909–1920)Suzanne Rowland 6. Wartime SwimwearCiara Phipps7. Fading From View: Using Postcard Photographs to Reveal the Market for Female Workwear During the First World WarJenny Richardson8. Rosetta Rowley’s Wedding Suit, 1952Natalie Raw9. Making Clothes for the Older Woman: Post-War Pattern Cutting and Dressmaking Home Instruction in Britain Hannah Wroe10. A Printed Summer Dress, c.1930–32Pauline Rushton11. Oral History and Everyday FashionJade Halbert12. Bryan’s ShoesBeatrice Behlen13. A Pocket History: Interpreting Wearer Biography in the Francis Golding CollectionCyana Madsen14. ApronsLou Taylor15. Learning Through Wear: Experiencing the Everyday Vintage WardrobeLiz TregenzaPart II: Everyday Fashion in Practice 16. The Fabled Chintz: Global Entanglement and South Asian Agency in Everyday British Fashion, 1600–1800Aditi Khare 17. Henry Wardell’s Flannel WaistcoatHilary Davidson18. The Everyday in Eighteenth-Century Women’s Sartorial Life-Writing Serena Dyer19. An Open Robe GownVanessa Jones20. Accidental Remainders: Working Men’s Fashion c.1730–1880 in National Museums ScotlandEmily Taylor21. A Victorian Best-Day Wedding DressRebecca Quinton22. ‘Fustian Jackets, Unshorn Chins, Blistered Hands’: Fabric and Political Feeling in the Chartist Movement, 1837–1848Vic Clarke23. Dr Fairweather’s ‘Apterna’ Progressive ShoesRuth Battersby Tooke24. ‘They go around the country making in the homes of the people’: Travelling Tailors and Shoemakers and the Production of Everyday Clothing in Rural Ireland, c.1850–1914Eliza McKee 25. Tailor’s Drawing Book, 1915Elen Phillips26. I Am an Ordinary Man: Getting and Wearing Suits in Britain 1945–1980Danielle Sprecher27. Two-Piece Skirt Suit; Alexon Youngset by Alannah Tandy c.1970–1973Shelley Tobin28. À la Mode in Maesteg: The Fashion Cultures of South Wales Garment Factories, 1945–1965Bethan Bide29. WVS Uniform DressValerie Wilson30. Wholesaling and Everyday Fashion in the Black CountryJenny Gilbert31. An Old Pair of JeansRebecca Unsworth32. To Dance in my Shoes: Music and the Psychological Influences of Style Choices in the London Caribbean Diaspora, from Lovers’ Rock to GrimeRianna Norbert-David33. A Tootal Paisley ScarfChristopher Breward 34. Conclusion: Common ThreadsBethan Bide, Jade Halbert and Liz TregenzaIndex

Drawing on a wonderfully rich collection of fashion stories, this thought-provoking and timely volume explores the multifarious ways we experience and understand the everyday, challenging limited and narrow notions and prompting us to adopt new perspectives on ‘history from below’.