Courtly Love Undressed

E. Jane Burns is L. M. Slifkin Distinguished Term Professor and Chair of the Curriculum in Women's Studies at the University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill. She is author of Bodytalk: When Women Speak in Old French Literature, also available from the University of Pennsylvania Press.

• Introduction: The Damsel's Sleeve-Reading Through Clothes in Courtly LovePART I. CLOTHING COURTLY BODIES1 Fortune's Gown: Material Extravagance and the Opulence of LovePART II. RECONFIGURING DESIRE: THE POETICS OF TOUCH2 Amorous Attire: Dressing Up for Love3 Love's Stitches Undone: Women's Work in the chanson de toilePART III. DENATURALIZING SEX: WOMEN AND MEN ON A GENDERED SARTORIAL CONTINUUM4 Robes, Armor, and Skin5 From Woman's Nature to Nature's DressPART IV. EXPANDING COURTLY SPACE THROUGH EASTERN RICHES6 Saracen Silk: Dolls, Idols, and Courtly Ladies7 Golden Spurs: Love in the Eastern World of Floire et BlancheflorCoda: Marie de Champagne and the MatiÈre of Courtly LoveNotesBibliographyIndexAcknowledgments

"Courtly Love Undressed is unique in its extended interrogation of the ways rich clothing and luxury possessions of courtly characters may be seen to subvert and rewrite the very hierarchies and distinctions they would seem to promote. The book offers something entirely new to medieval cultural and literary studies: a materialist analysis of the fantasy of courtly love."-Peggy McCracken, University of Michigan"Burns enables us to see, and to be surprised totally by, what the texts themselves have to say."-Sharon Farmer, University of California, Santa Barbara."Burns argues persuasively that fabric and clothing can create representations of both gender and status in selected French courtly texts. . . . While grounded in solid readings of medieval texts, Burns's book also reflects and adds to recent feminist rethinking of clothing's capacity to empower women."-Speculum"This study of material culture provides a fresh picture of courtly love. . . . Burns gives true life to French literature of the high Middle Ages and provides careful readings of a variety of texts."-Choice"An invigorating reassessment of the French literature of the High Middle Ages through the discourse of the dress and luxury adornments of court men and women. . . . The book sets very ambitious goals and accomplishes them with very dense readings, which vacillate from deceptively simple and clear analysis of twelfth- and thirteenth-century texts, to a much more profound understanding of those metaphors in a larger sociological context."-Comitatus"Burns evinces a clear mastery of the subtleties of the array of primary texts she uses. . . . Her bibliography of both primary and secondary sources is substantial and well-rounded. Though history plays a part in her readings, her focus is squarely on the literary text. Her close readings are impressive in their analyses and command of the polyvalence of medieval vernacular."-Arthuriana