Ken Wilson (1941–2016) was editor of Mountain magazine from 1969 until 1978 and owner of the outdoor publishing company Diadem from 1978 until 1989, when it was incorporated into Hodder & Stoughton. In 1993 Hodder downsized, and Ken set up the publishing house Baton Wicks. He was publisher and author of many of the most important and famed outdoor books in the British climbing world, including the 'Hard Rock' series: The Games Climbers Play, The Black Cliff, Cold Climbs, Wild, Classic and Big Walks, and others, including Argonauts of the Western Isles, Canoeing across Canada, and Run River Run. Ken was a member of the Climbers' Club, for which he edited the journal in 1976, and was intimately involved with the British Mountaineering Council, both as a volunteer and a critic. He was an Alpine Club member and an Honorary Member of the British Mountaineering Council.

• Preface The Early Days of Classic Climbing PEAK AND PENNINE1 FLYING BUTTRESS, APRIL CRACK, BLACK SLAB Stanage Edge Jim Perrin 2 SAIL BUTTRESS, TOPSAIL, POWDER MONKEY PARADE Birchen Edge Charles Clark 3 CENTRAL CLIMB (K2 and Modern) Hen Cloud Paul Nunn 4 VIA DOLOROSA, BLACK AND TANS, TECHNICAL SLAB The Roaches Dave Cook 5 PARSONS’ CHIMNEY Almscliff Crag Angela Soper 6 RED PENCIL DIRECT Penyghent Anthony Greenbank NORTH WALES7 MILESTONE DIRECT ROUTE Milestone Buttress Barbara James 8 GASHED CRAG, FIRST PINNACLE RIB, GROOVED ARÊTE Tryfan Showell Styles 9 DIRECT ROUTE Glyder Fach David Cox 10 HOPE, LAZARUS, THE ARÊTE, GREY SLAB Idwal Slabs/Glyder Fawr Ron James 11 GREAT GULLY Craig yr Ysfa Tony Moulam 12 FLYING BUTTRESS, SPIRAL STAIRS Dinas Cromlech Roger Grimshaw 13 CRACKSTONE RIB, WRINKLE Carreg Wastad Dave Cook 14 NEA Clogwyn y Grochan Nea Morin 15 THE CRACKS Dinas Mot Anne Wheatcroft 16 MAIN WALL Cyrn Las Sir Charles Evans 17 AVALANCHE, RED WALL, LONGLAND’S CONTINUATION Lliwedd Harold Drasdo 18 CREAGH DHU WALL Tremadog Rocks Jim Perrin 19 WILL-O’-THE-WISP Craig Cywarch John SumnerSOUTH-WEST ENGLAND20 PITON ROUTE Avon Gorge Mike Thompson 21 CLIMBERS’ CLUB ORDINARY Dewerstone Mike Banks 22 THE DEVIL’S SLIDE Lundy John Cleare 23 DEMO ROUTE Sennen Robert Moulton 24 TERRIER’S TOOTH, PENDULUM CHIMNEY Chair Ladder Dave Cook 25 DOORPOST Bosigran Mike Banks THE LAKE DISTRICT26 LITTLE CHAMONIX Shepherd’s Crag Angela Soper 27 TROUTDALE PINNACLE Black Crag Anthony Greenbank 28 GILLERCOMBE BUTTRESS Gillercombe Joann Greenhow 29 NAPES NEEDLE Great Gable Paul Nunn 30 TOPHET WALL Great Gable Dennis Gray 31 ASH TREE SLABS, C ROUTE Gimmer Crag Lord Hunt 32 BRACKET AND SLAB Gimmer Crag Tom Price 33 BOWFELL BUTTRESS Bowfell Walt Unsworth34 MURRAY’S ROUTE Dow Crag Anthony Greenbank 35 NEW WEST CLIMB, RIB AND SLAB Pillar Rock C. Douglas Milner 36 JONES’S ROUTE DIRECT FROM LORD’S RAKE Scafell Pinnacle Tony Toole 37 MOSS GHYLL GROOVES Scafell Crag Tom Price SCOTLAND 38 SOU’WESTER SLABS, LABYRINTH Cir Mhor, Isle of Arran Graham Little 39 RECESS ROUTE, PUNSTER’S CRACK, ARDGARTEN ARÊTE The Cobbler John Mackenzie 40 NORTH FACE ROUTE,AGAG’S GROOVE Buachaille Etive Mòr Tom Weir 41 THE CHASM Buachaille Etive Mòr Ken Crocket 42 LONG CRACK,ARCHER RIDGE,CRYPT ROUTE Aonach Dubh/B.nam Bian John Mackenzie 43 CLACHAIG GULLY Glen Coe Allan Austin 44 ARDVERIKIE WALL Binnein Shuas Bill Skidmore 45 SAVAGE SLIT Coire an Lochain Doug Lang 46 THE CLEAN SWEEP Hell’s Lum Crag Allen Fyffe 47 THE TALISMAN Creagan a’Choire Etchachan Brian Lawrie 48 SQUAREFACE Garbh Choire, Beinn a’Bhuird Martin Burrows Smith 49 MITRE RIDGE (CUMMING/CROFTON ROUTE) Garbh Choire, Beinn a’Bhuird Robin Campbell 50 EAGLE RIDGE Lochnagar Bill Brooker 51 THE CIOCH NOSE Applecross Donald Bennet 52 CIOCH DIRECT, ARROW ROUTE, INTEGRITY Sron na Ciche, Isle of Skye Paul Brian 53 THE BLACK CUILLIN RIDGE Isle of Skye Ted Maden 54 TOWER RIDGE Ben Nevis Robin Campbell 55 THE LONG CLIMB Ben Nevis Malcolm Slesser Other Good Climbs Map Guidebooks/Maps Grading Comparisons Acknowledgements Index

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Ken Wilson (1941–2016) was editor of Mountain magazine from 1969 until 1978 and owner of the outdoor publishing company Diadem from 1978 until 1989, when it was incorporated into Hodder & Stoughton. In 1993 Hodder downsized, and Ken set up the publishing house Baton Wicks. He was publisher and author of many of the most important and famed outdoor books in the British climbing world, including the 'Hard Rock' series: The Games Climbers Play, The Black Cliff, Cold Climbs, Wild, Classic and Big Walks, and others, including Argonauts of the Western Isles, Canoeing across Canada, and Run River Run. Ken was a member of the Climbers' Club, for which he edited the journal in 1976, and was intimately involved with the British Mountaineering Council, both as a volunteer and a critic. He was an Alpine Club member and an Honorary Member of the British Mountaineering Council.

• Preface The Early Days of Classic Climbing PEAK AND PENNINE1 FLYING BUTTRESS, APRIL CRACK, BLACK SLAB Stanage Edge Jim Perrin 2 SAIL BUTTRESS, TOPSAIL, POWDER MONKEY PARADE Birchen Edge Charles Clark 3 CENTRAL CLIMB (K2 and Modern) Hen Cloud Paul Nunn 4 VIA DOLOROSA, BLACK AND TANS, TECHNICAL SLAB The Roaches Dave Cook 5 PARSONS’ CHIMNEY Almscliff Crag Angela Soper 6 RED PENCIL DIRECT Penyghent Anthony Greenbank NORTH WALES7 MILESTONE DIRECT ROUTE Milestone Buttress Barbara James 8 GASHED CRAG, FIRST PINNACLE RIB, GROOVED ARÊTE Tryfan Showell Styles 9 DIRECT ROUTE Glyder Fach David Cox 10 HOPE, LAZARUS, THE ARÊTE, GREY SLAB Idwal Slabs/Glyder Fawr Ron James 11 GREAT GULLY Craig yr Ysfa Tony Moulam 12 FLYING BUTTRESS, SPIRAL STAIRS Dinas Cromlech Roger Grimshaw 13 CRACKSTONE RIB, WRINKLE Carreg Wastad Dave Cook 14 NEA Clogwyn y Grochan Nea Morin 15 THE CRACKS Dinas Mot Anne Wheatcroft 16 MAIN WALL Cyrn Las Sir Charles Evans 17 AVALANCHE, RED WALL, LONGLAND’S CONTINUATION Lliwedd Harold Drasdo 18 CREAGH DHU WALL Tremadog Rocks Jim Perrin 19 WILL-O’-THE-WISP Craig Cywarch John SumnerSOUTH-WEST ENGLAND20 PITON ROUTE Avon Gorge Mike Thompson 21 CLIMBERS’ CLUB ORDINARY Dewerstone Mike Banks 22 THE DEVIL’S SLIDE Lundy John Cleare 23 DEMO ROUTE Sennen Robert Moulton 24 TERRIER’S TOOTH, PENDULUM CHIMNEY Chair Ladder Dave Cook 25 DOORPOST Bosigran Mike Banks THE LAKE DISTRICT26 LITTLE CHAMONIX Shepherd’s Crag Angela Soper 27 TROUTDALE PINNACLE Black Crag Anthony Greenbank 28 GILLERCOMBE BUTTRESS Gillercombe Joann Greenhow 29 NAPES NEEDLE Great Gable Paul Nunn 30 TOPHET WALL Great Gable Dennis Gray 31 ASH TREE SLABS, C ROUTE Gimmer Crag Lord Hunt 32 BRACKET AND SLAB Gimmer Crag Tom Price 33 BOWFELL BUTTRESS Bowfell Walt Unsworth34 MURRAY’S ROUTE Dow Crag Anthony Greenbank 35 NEW WEST CLIMB, RIB AND SLAB Pillar Rock C. Douglas Milner 36 JONES’S ROUTE DIRECT FROM LORD’S RAKE Scafell Pinnacle Tony Toole 37 MOSS GHYLL GROOVES Scafell Crag Tom Price SCOTLAND 38 SOU’WESTER SLABS, LABYRINTH Cir Mhor, Isle of Arran Graham Little 39 RECESS ROUTE, PUNSTER’S CRACK, ARDGARTEN ARÊTE The Cobbler John Mackenzie 40 NORTH FACE ROUTE,AGAG’S GROOVE Buachaille Etive Mòr Tom Weir 41 THE CHASM Buachaille Etive Mòr Ken Crocket 42 LONG CRACK,ARCHER RIDGE,CRYPT ROUTE Aonach Dubh/B.nam Bian John Mackenzie 43 CLACHAIG GULLY Glen Coe Allan Austin 44 ARDVERIKIE WALL Binnein Shuas Bill Skidmore 45 SAVAGE SLIT Coire an Lochain Doug Lang 46 THE CLEAN SWEEP Hell’s Lum Crag Allen Fyffe 47 THE TALISMAN Creagan a’Choire Etchachan Brian Lawrie 48 SQUAREFACE Garbh Choire, Beinn a’Bhuird Martin Burrows Smith 49 MITRE RIDGE (CUMMING/CROFTON ROUTE) Garbh Choire, Beinn a’Bhuird Robin Campbell 50 EAGLE RIDGE Lochnagar Bill Brooker 51 THE CIOCH NOSE Applecross Donald Bennet 52 CIOCH DIRECT, ARROW ROUTE, INTEGRITY Sron na Ciche, Isle of Skye Paul Brian 53 THE BLACK CUILLIN RIDGE Isle of Skye Ted Maden 54 TOWER RIDGE Ben Nevis Robin Campbell 55 THE LONG CLIMB Ben Nevis Malcolm Slesser Other Good Climbs Map Guidebooks/Maps Grading Comparisons Acknowledgements Index

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Ken Wilson (1941–2016) was editor of Mountain magazine from 1969 until 1978 and owner of the outdoor publishing company Diadem from 1978 until 1989, when it was incorporated into Hodder & Stoughton. In 1993 Hodder downsized, and Ken set up the publishing house Baton Wicks. He was publisher and author of many of the most important and famed outdoor books in the British climbing world, including the 'Hard Rock' series: The Games Climbers Play, The Black Cliff, Cold Climbs, Wild, Classic and Big Walks, and others, including Argonauts of the Western Isles, Canoeing across Canada, and Run River Run. Ken was a member of the Climbers' Club, for which he edited the journal in 1976, and was intimately involved with the British Mountaineering Council, both as a volunteer and a critic. He was an Alpine Club member and an Honorary Member of the British Mountaineering Council.

• Preface The Early Days of Classic Climbing PEAK AND PENNINE1 FLYING BUTTRESS, APRIL CRACK, BLACK SLAB Stanage Edge Jim Perrin 2 SAIL BUTTRESS, TOPSAIL, POWDER MONKEY PARADE Birchen Edge Charles Clark 3 CENTRAL CLIMB (K2 and Modern) Hen Cloud Paul Nunn 4 VIA DOLOROSA, BLACK AND TANS, TECHNICAL SLAB The Roaches Dave Cook 5 PARSONS’ CHIMNEY Almscliff Crag Angela Soper 6 RED PENCIL DIRECT Penyghent Anthony Greenbank NORTH WALES7 MILESTONE DIRECT ROUTE Milestone Buttress Barbara James 8 GASHED CRAG, FIRST PINNACLE RIB, GROOVED ARÊTE Tryfan Showell Styles 9 DIRECT ROUTE Glyder Fach David Cox 10 HOPE, LAZARUS, THE ARÊTE, GREY SLAB Idwal Slabs/Glyder Fawr Ron James 11 GREAT GULLY Craig yr Ysfa Tony Moulam 12 FLYING BUTTRESS, SPIRAL STAIRS Dinas Cromlech Roger Grimshaw 13 CRACKSTONE RIB, WRINKLE Carreg Wastad Dave Cook 14 NEA Clogwyn y Grochan Nea Morin 15 THE CRACKS Dinas Mot Anne Wheatcroft 16 MAIN WALL Cyrn Las Sir Charles Evans 17 AVALANCHE, RED WALL, LONGLAND’S CONTINUATION Lliwedd Harold Drasdo 18 CREAGH DHU WALL Tremadog Rocks Jim Perrin 19 WILL-O’-THE-WISP Craig Cywarch John SumnerSOUTH-WEST ENGLAND20 PITON ROUTE Avon Gorge Mike Thompson 21 CLIMBERS’ CLUB ORDINARY Dewerstone Mike Banks 22 THE DEVIL’S SLIDE Lundy John Cleare 23 DEMO ROUTE Sennen Robert Moulton 24 TERRIER’S TOOTH, PENDULUM CHIMNEY Chair Ladder Dave Cook 25 DOORPOST Bosigran Mike Banks THE LAKE DISTRICT26 LITTLE CHAMONIX Shepherd’s Crag Angela Soper 27 TROUTDALE PINNACLE Black Crag Anthony Greenbank 28 GILLERCOMBE BUTTRESS Gillercombe Joann Greenhow 29 NAPES NEEDLE Great Gable Paul Nunn 30 TOPHET WALL Great Gable Dennis Gray 31 ASH TREE SLABS, C ROUTE Gimmer Crag Lord Hunt 32 BRACKET AND SLAB Gimmer Crag Tom Price 33 BOWFELL BUTTRESS Bowfell Walt Unsworth34 MURRAY’S ROUTE Dow Crag Anthony Greenbank 35 NEW WEST CLIMB, RIB AND SLAB Pillar Rock C. Douglas Milner 36 JONES’S ROUTE DIRECT FROM LORD’S RAKE Scafell Pinnacle Tony Toole 37 MOSS GHYLL GROOVES Scafell Crag Tom Price SCOTLAND 38 SOU’WESTER SLABS, LABYRINTH Cir Mhor, Isle of Arran Graham Little 39 RECESS ROUTE, PUNSTER’S CRACK, ARDGARTEN ARÊTE The Cobbler John Mackenzie 40 NORTH FACE ROUTE,AGAG’S GROOVE Buachaille Etive Mòr Tom Weir 41 THE CHASM Buachaille Etive Mòr Ken Crocket 42 LONG CRACK,ARCHER RIDGE,CRYPT ROUTE Aonach Dubh/B.nam Bian John Mackenzie 43 CLACHAIG GULLY Glen Coe Allan Austin 44 ARDVERIKIE WALL Binnein Shuas Bill Skidmore 45 SAVAGE SLIT Coire an Lochain Doug Lang 46 THE CLEAN SWEEP Hell’s Lum Crag Allen Fyffe 47 THE TALISMAN Creagan a’Choire Etchachan Brian Lawrie 48 SQUAREFACE Garbh Choire, Beinn a’Bhuird Martin Burrows Smith 49 MITRE RIDGE (CUMMING/CROFTON ROUTE) Garbh Choire, Beinn a’Bhuird Robin Campbell 50 EAGLE RIDGE Lochnagar Bill Brooker 51 THE CIOCH NOSE Applecross Donald Bennet 52 CIOCH DIRECT, ARROW ROUTE, INTEGRITY Sron na Ciche, Isle of Skye Paul Brian 53 THE BLACK CUILLIN RIDGE Isle of Skye Ted Maden 54 TOWER RIDGE Ben Nevis Robin Campbell 55 THE LONG CLIMB Ben Nevis Malcolm Slesser Other Good Climbs Map Guidebooks/Maps Grading Comparisons Acknowledgements Index

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