Chintz

A prolific collector and researcher of textiles, Karun Thakar has refined his discerning approach over forty years, building one of the most important private collections in the world. He believes that every textile in his collection has a story to tell about the people who made it and the way that they lived. He lends and donates pieces to international museums to deepen the understanding of what they mean and the cultures to which they belong. Through cloth and his wider collection, he hopes to contribute to a wider understanding of postcolonial narratives. A key aspect of his collecting, exhibiting and publishing is to present objects, such as domestic embroidery, that are not represented in museum collections, and to engage a new audience and demographic through these objects and their many untold narratives. He believes that exploring people’s histories through the medium of cloth offers an ideal way to address difficult and complex topics both contemporary and historical. He has published seven books about his collection, and in 2021 launched the Karun Thakar Fund at the V&A. The fund offers scholarships and grants of up to £10,000 to students, early career researchers and emerging practitioners working anywhere in the world on any aspect of Asian or African textiles and dress. Contributors include: Sylvia Houghteling, Associate Professor of History of Art, Bryn Mawr College, Pennsylvania. Ebeltje Hartkamp-Jonxis, Curator Emeritus, Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam. Ariane Fennetaux, University Professor, Sorbonne Nouvelle University, Paris. Steven Cohen, Independent scholar. Rosemary Crill, former Senior Curator for South Asia, Victoria & Albert Museum, London. Ruth Barnes, Thomas Jaffe Curator of Indo-Pacific Art, Yale University Art Gallery, Connecticut. Etsuko Iwanaga, Director, Fukuoka Art Museum, Japan. Fiona Kerlogue, former Deputy Keeper of Anthropology, Horniman Museum, London. Anna Lise Seastrand, Associate Professor of Art History, University of Minnesota-Twin Cities. Avalon Fotheringham, Curator of South Asian Textiles and Dress, Victoria & Albert Museum, London. John Guy, Senior Curator of the Arts of South and Southeast Asia, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.

• ForewordKarun Thakar6IntroductionKarun Thakar12What is chintz?Karun Thakar16CHAPTER 1EUROPEThe complexity of kalamkariAvalon Fotheringham54Appliqué chintz panelsRosemary Crill72At home with Indian chintzAriane Fennetaux106Fragments of Indian chintz inDutch local costumeEbeltje Hartkamp-Jonxis142A folio of fragments168CHAPTER 2INDONESIAEarly chintz in the Karun ThakarcollectionRuth Barnes182A floral sarong in detailSylvia Houghteling196Lampung chintzFiona Kerlogue218CHAPTER 3SRI LANKASri Lankan market chintzesSteven Cohen244The flower pickerJohn Guy254The saint across the sea andother storiesAnna Lise Seastrand272Our Lady of Good VoyageJohn Guy308CHAPTER 4SOUTHEAST ASIAThe sincerest form ofappreciationEtsuko Iwanaga354Jackets for the Thai King’s guardsJohn Guy362Catalogue378Reading list412Contributors' biographies413

"The book is a tribute to a unique, taste-forming textile art that has lost none of its appeal to this day. " - Preetorius Foundation