Bodice Engineering

Louise Johnson is a couture dressmaker, private sewing instructor and Australian Sewing Guild Industry Partner based in Perth, Australia. She has spent several years researching the history of inner corselettes, their construction methods, and the techniques used for integrating them into gowns.

• IntroductionPART 1: BUILDING AN INNER CORSELETTE1. Creating Shape: A Brief HistoryCorselettes and Dior’s New LookInner Corselette DesignsWhy Sew an Inner Corselette?2. Selecting and Fitting the PatternMeasuring for a CorseletteSelecting the PatternSelecting the Pattern SizeUnderstanding EaseDetermining Pattern EaseAdjusting the PatternAdding a Centre Front Dart3. The ToileConstructing the ToileFitting the ToileAssessing the FitAdjusting the ToileMarking the Changes4. Selecting Fabrics, Notions and BoningFabrics BoningSelecting your BoningTapes Fasteners5. Construction OverviewPrepare the PatternPrepare the Fabric ElementsGeneral Construction Sequence6. Creating the ShellSingle, Double or Lined?Assembling a Lined CorseletteAssembling a Double Layer Woven CorseletteAssembling a Double Layer Bobbinet CorselettePressingSewing the SeamsFinishing the Seam Allowances7. Installing the BoningBoning LayoutPreparing the BoningInstalling the Boning8. Edge FinishesStabilising the Upper EdgeUpper Edge FinishesFinishing the Lower Edge9. Adding the FasteningPlanning the FasteningsCorselette FasteningsZippersHooks and Eyes Concealing Hooks and Eyes Waist StaysSkirt and Petticoat FasteningsPetticoat FasteningsSkirt Fastenings10. Joining the Inner Corselette and GarmentMachine Sewn to the Garment Upper EdgeFaced Method Enclosed Seam MethodHand Sewn to the Garment BodyTiered Edges MethodWrapped Edge MethodFloating Edge MethodPART 2: APPLYING THE TECHNIQUES11. The Classic Mini DressPrepare the PatternsSew and Fit the ToilesConstruct the Inner CorseletteSew the DressJoin the Inner Corselette and Dress12. The Lace Wedding GownPrepare the PatternsSew and Fit the ToilesConstruct the Inner CorseletteSew the GownJoin the Inner Corselette and GownMaking a French Tack13. The Sweetheart Bare-Shouldered JacketPrepare the PatternsSew and Fit the ToilesConstruct the CorseletteSew the JacketJoin the Corselette and JacketComplete the Jacket and Corselette14. The Blush Tea-Length GownPrepare the PatternsSew and Fit the ToilesConstruct the Corselette and PetticoatSew the GownJoin the Corselette and Gown15. The Floral Evening GownCreate and Fit the Strapless DesignPrepare the PatternsSew and Fit the ToilesConstruct the CorseletteSew the GownJoin the Corselette and GownBust Enhancers16. The Lilac Cocktail GownPrepare the PatternsModify the Patterns for the Gown DesignSew and Fit the ToilesConstruct the CorseletteSew the GownJoin the Corselette and DressGlossaryBibliography and Further ReadingResourcesIndex

Anyone who wants to replicate the exquisite workmanship of couture gowns will appreciate this beautifully illustrated guide to engineering the bodice with an inner corselette. With abundant illustrations and clear and concise step-by-step instructions, readers will learn everything they need to know to achieve a shapely and smooth silhouette.