This second edition brings the definitive empirical work on Japanese youth fashion subcultures up-to-date for the 2020s, featuring three new chapters and essential updates in light of new fieldwork and globalized digital media.Based on in-depth ethnographic fieldwork in Tokyo and illustrated with striking color images, Fashioning Japanese Subcultures gives a unique insight into how and why subcultures evolve and what they mean to their members. Defined by style and urban district, subcultures such as Lolita in Harajuku, Gyaru and Gyaru-o in Shibuya, Age-jo in Shinjuku, and Mori Girl in Koenji, articulate identities, affiliations, and aspirations. Over the past 10 years social media has dramatically expanded the reach and impact of these cultural phenomena far beyond their traditional geographic groups, leading to worldwide adoption and adaptation.This second edition features three new chapters on the global impact of anime, manga and cosplay, global youth subcultures and ‘-cores’ in cyberspace and social media, and understanding Japanese subcultures through neofeminist and cyber feminist frameworks. Exploring each subculture over the decade since the last edition, it also features new fieldwork across Tokyo, New York and social media platforms, updated coverage of Euro-American perspectives in light of advancements in postcolonial theory, and new methodological sections on cyberethnography and auto ethnography.
Yuniya Kawamura is Professor of Sociology at the Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York, USA. She is the author of four other Bloomsbury Visual Arts publications: Sneakers (2016), Fashion-ology (2023), Doing Research in Fashion and Dress (2020), and Cultural Appropriation in Fashion and Entertainment (2022).
List of Figures and TablesPart I: Introduction1. Understanding Subcultural Studies2. Placing Tokyo on the Fashion Map: A Brief History3. Japanese Youth in a Changing SocietyPart II: Geographically and Stylistically Defined Japanese Subcultures: Past and Present4. Shibuya: The Youth in Outspoken Rebellion5. Harajuku: The Youth in Silent Rebellion6. Akihabara and Ikebukuro: Costume as Aspirations of Identity and Entertainment7. Shinjuku and Koenji: Expressing Beliefs and State of Mind8. The Cultivation of New Aesthetics and Professional CategoriesPart III: Decentralization, Diversification, and Globalization10: Japanese Subcultural Fashion in Anime and Manga11: Virtual Neotribes Inspired by Japanese Subcultural Aesthetics12: Japanese Youth Subcultures from Neofeminist and Cyberfeminist PerspectivesConclusionAppendixNotesBibliographyIndex
An important text that re-thinks subcultural theory at its intersection with fashion beyond the geographic frontier of ‘the West’, sharpening our focus on key case studies derived from in-depth fieldwork on the streets of Tokyo
Yuniya Kawamura, Jung-Whan Marc de Jong, USA) Kawamura, Yuniya (Fashion Institute of Technology, USA) Jong, Jung-Whan Marc de (Fashion Institute of Technology
Yuniya Kawamura, Jung-Whan Marc de Jong, USA) Kawamura, Yuniya (Fashion Institute of Technology, USA) Jong, Jung-Whan Marc de (Fashion Institute of Technology
Yuniya Kawamura, Jung-Whan Marc de Jong, USA) Kawamura, Yuniya (Fashion Institute of Technology, USA) Jong, Jung-Whan Marc de (Fashion Institute of Technology
Yuniya Kawamura, Jung-Whan Marc de Jong, USA) Kawamura, Yuniya (Fashion Institute of Technology, USA) Jong, Jung-Whan Marc de (Fashion Institute of Technology