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Central and Southwest Asia explores dress history and practices throughout the vast area linking central Asia to the Eastern Mediterranean. The birthplace of three world religions, this is a region shaped by cultural legacies: Arabs, Iranians, and Ottoman Turks have all left stunning and enduring artistic forms. This volume is the only major work to cover the full range of dress across this region, from the historic Silk Road, which played a vital role in linking dress and textile traditions in the area, to topics rarely before investigated, such as Kurdish dress, the role of the hajj market, and Afghan fashion shows. The region's location as a bridge between East and West is also explored, as are the cultural and symbolic meanings of Islamic dress and the West's romantic fascination with Orientalism. Rare photographs provide fascinating visual evidence of the region's rich and complex history.
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood is Director of the Textile Research Centre, Leiden.
Encyclopedia PrefacePreface to Central and Southwest AsiaPART 1: Overview of Dress and Fashion in Central and Southwest AsiaIntroduction to Dress and Fashion in Central and Southwest Asia, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodClimate, Geography, and Dress, Willem VogelsangHistory of Dress and Fashion, Willem VogelsangPre-Islamic Dress Codes in the Eastern Mediterranean and Southwest Asia, Mary Harlow and Lloyd Llewellyn-JonesThe Coming of Islam and Its Influence on Dress, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodJewish Dress in Central and Southwest Asia and the Diaspora, Esther JuhaszDress Reforms of the Early Twentieth Century in Turkey, Iran, and Afghanistan, Derek BryceSNAPSHOT: Turkish Fashion Designers , Fatma MeteSNAPSHOT: ANAT, Syria, Heike WeberSNAPSHOT: An Omani Fashion Designer, Julia M. Al-ZadjaliSNAPSHOT: An Afghan Fashion Show, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodHussein Chalayan: Controversial Fashion Designer or Bridge between East and West?, Bradley QuinnSources of Information about Dress in Southwest Asia, Tineke RooijakkersCentral and Southwest Asian Dress Studies, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodPART 2: Textiles of Central and Southwest AsiaTrade, Textiles, and Dress in Central and Southwest Asia, Abby LillethunSNAPSHOT: Textiles of Central Asia, Abby LillethunSNAPSHOT: Trade, Textiles, Dress, and the Hajj, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodTiraz: Textiles and Dress with Inscriptions in Central and Southwest Asia, Margaret Anne DeppePART 3: Anatolia and the Eastern MediterraneanHistorical Survey of Textiles and Dress in Turkey, Charlotte JirousekTurkish Embroidery, Sumru Belger KrodyOttoman Dress, Nancy MicklewrightThe Kaftan and Its Origins, Charlotte JirousekRoyal Dress Preserved at the Topkapi Museum, Hülya TezcanSNAPSHOT: Turkish Costume Albums, Jennifer M. ScarceRegional Dress in Anatolia, Jennifer M. ScarceDress in Modern Israel, Ayala RazChristian Secular, Monastic, and Liturgical Dress in the Eastern Mediterranean, Karel C. InneméeArab Men's Dress in the Eastern Mediterranean, Widad Kawar and Sibba EinarsdóttirPalestinian Women's Dress, Widad Kawar and Sibba EinarsdóttirPalestinian Scarves and Flag Dresses, Tineke RooijakkersPalestinian Embroidery, Tineke Rooijakkers and Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodEmbroidery Workshops in Palestine, Heike WeberJordanian Women's Dress, Widad Kawar and Sibba EinarsdóttirSyria, Tineke Rooijakkers and Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodLebanese Women's Dress, Nour Majdalany HakimSNAPSHOT: Druze Dress, Heike Weber and Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodPART 4: Arabian Desert and PeninsulaIntroduction to the History of Dress in the Arabian Desert and Peninsula, Tineke RooijakkersBedouin Jewelry, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodSaudi Arabian Dress, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodYemeni Dress, Christina LindholmOmani Dress SNAPSHOT: The Abayeh in Oman, Julia M. Al-ZadjaliDress from the Gulf States: Bahrain, Kuwait, Qatar, United Arab Emirates, Fadwa El Guindi and Wesam al-OthmanSNAPSHOT: The Abayeh in Qatar, Christina LindholmPART 5: Iranian PlateauIntroduction to the History of Dress on the Iranian Plateau, Willem VogelsangIraqi Dress, Ulrike Al-Khamis and Saad Lafta HamiKurdish Dress, Layla Yousif PioEarly Iranian Textiles and Their Influence on Pre-Islamic Dress, Irene GoodIranian Regional Dress, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodIranian Urban Dress, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodReza Shah's Dress Reforms in Iran, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodRegional Dress of Afghanistan, Willem VogelsangAfghan Dress and the Diaspora, M. Catherine DalyAfghan Jewelry, M. Catherine DalySNAPSHOT: Afghan Embroidery, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodThe Chadari/Burqa of Afghanistan and Pakistan, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodPART 6: Central AsiaHistory of West Turkistan and Its Influence on the Dress of South Central Asia, Willem VogelsangTrouser Wearing by Horse-Riding Nomads in Central Asia, Willem VogelsangTurkmen Dress and Embroidery SNAPSHOT: Turkmen Women's Jewelry, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodDress from Tajikistan and Uzbekistan, Christina SumnerUzbek Textiles, Carter MalikDress from Kazakhstan, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodDress from Kyrgyzstan, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodPART 7: People and Dress in Central and Southwest AsiaFitrah: Temporary and Permanent Body Modifications for Muslims, Irvin Cemil SchickSNAPSHOT: Henna, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodSNAPSHOT: Indigo, Tineke RooijakkersPerfume and Incense, Julia M. Al-ZadjaliWeapons and Accessories, Willem VogelsangBirth, Marriage, and Death, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodThe Tradition of the Bridal Trousseau, Sumru Belger KrodyDress and Hadiths ("Traditions" or Sayings Attributed to the Prophet Mohammed), Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodSNAPSHOT: Dress of Shiites and Mystics, Ashgar Seyed-GohrabSNAPSHOT: Islamic Pilgrimage Dress (Ihram), Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodSNAPSHOT: Muharram and Dress, Ashgar Seyed-GohrabSNAPSHOT: Islam and Islamically Correct Dress (Hijab), Fadwa El GuindiLaws of Differentiation, Irvin Cemil SchickSumptuary Laws 456, Irvin Cemil SchickKhil'a: Clothing to Honor a Person or Situation, Stewart GordonFace Veils, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodThe Turban and Male Headgear, Beverly ChicoSNAPSHOT: Al-Washsha, a Medieval Fashion Guru, Gillian Vogelsang-EastwoodSNAPSHOT: Orientalism in Western Dress and Stage Costume, Lloyd Llewellyn-JonesDress and Tourism, Derek BryceIndex