Exploring the proliferation of makeup as both practice and metaphor across intellectual, visual and material culture, this transnational study involves analysis of French, British, German and Russian art, philosophy, fiction, journalism and advice manuals.From its negative early modern associations with the sensual and the superficial to its acceptance and widespread use in the 1910s, Ksenia Gusarova traces makeup’s many transformations.Across centuries and national boundaries, associations between makeup and visual arts, particularly painting, were fairly commonplace in European intellectual and popular culture. Though mostly unflattering, occasionally comparisons were made that challenged established aesthetic hierarchies in order to promote new definitions of art. The Art of Beauty examines the discourse about cosmetics as (inferior) art, arguing for its important role in policing the boundaries of what was considered artistic practice and who was allowed to engage in it, with regard to gender in particular, but also class and race.
Ksenia Gusarova studies cultural history of the body, dress and beauty culture. Her research has appeared in leading periodicals in the field, such as Fashion Theory and Clothing Cultures, as well as in several collected volumes, including Seasoned Socialism: Gender and Food in Late Soviet Everyday Life (2019).
AcknowledgementsList of IllustrationsIntroductionChapter 1. "Cosmetic" art and “painted” faces: a prehistory of the debateVerbal cosmetics: the use and abuse of "colours" in early modern rhetoricFrench Academics quarrel over “made-up” paintingsCosmetics in the Encyclopédie and Diderot’s criticism of Rococo aestheticsDeceived by rouge no more: Kant on the power of illusionsChapter 2. Acting the part: makeup on stage and off stageThe theatre of fashion: acting, imitation and woman’s “nature”Actors’ beauty: between advantage and liabilityCharacter makeup and physiognomicsChapter 3. Living statues and death masks: the ambiguity of cosmetic whitenessThe many kinds of statue-like women(Un)seeing the paint: made-up sculptures in art and lifePorcelain and plaster: material hierarchies in makeup metaphorsChapter 4. From realistic to abstract: makeup as painting on the faceThe riot of color: face-painting beyond physiognomicsFrom transparency to opacity: makeup as a visual paradoxLearning from painting: makeup principles and techniques borrowed from a painter’s studioShaping vision: makeup and the artist’s touchBeyond illusionism: makeup as a “tattoo”Chapter 5. Makeup in avant-garde art: from appropriation to otheringRadical makeup: futurist face-paintingModern art as defacement: cosmetics in ProustMakeup for the face of new art: Malevich’s white ConclusionNotesBibliographyIndex