Weaving Europe, Crafting the Museum delves into the history and the changing material culture in Europe through the stories of a basket, a carpet, a waistcoat, a uniform, and a dress. The focus on the objects from the collection of the Museum of European Cultures in Berlin offers an innovative and challenging way of understanding textile culture and museums. The book shows that textiles can be simultaneously used as the material object of research, and as a lens through which we can view museums. In doing so, the book fills a major gap by placing textile knowledge back into the museum.Each chapter focuses on one object story and can be read individually. Swooping from 19th-century wax figure cabinets, Nazi-era collections, Cold War exhibitions in East and West Berlin, and institutional reshuffling after German unification, it reveals the dramatically changing story of the museum and its collection. Based on research with museum curators, makers and users of the textiles in Italy and Germany, Poland and Romania, the book provides intimate insights into how objects are mobilised to very different social and political effects. It sheds new light on movements across borders, political uses of textiles by fascist and communist regimes, the objects’ fall into oblivion, as well as their heritage and tourist afterlives. Addressing this complex museum legacy, the book suggests new pathways to prefigure the future.Featuring new archival and ethnographic research, evocative examples and images, it is an essential read for students of textile and material culture, museum and curatorial studies as well as anyone interested in history, heritage and craft.
Magdalena Buchczyk is a Junior Professor in Social Anthropology of Cultural Expressions at the Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, Germany. She conducts ethnographic research on collections, material culture and intangible heritage. Publications include articles in Museum Anthropology, International Journal of Heritage Studies, Journal of Museum Ethnography and Textile: Journal of Cloth and Culture.
List of FiguresAcknowledgementsAbbreviationsIntroductionTextiles beyond the folkloricFieldwork trajectoryTextural ethnographyThe problem of crafting collectionsOutline of the book1. Sample collection: Dreams and archivesEncounterA place for the museumTextile archivesWorld stageConclusion2. Carpets: Knotted histories, recurrent patternsNationalist folkloreSchool and museumRegained TerritoriesPost-war reconstructionTruly Polish craftScrapsRecurrent patternsConclusion3. Woven basket: Untethered artTrader in exoticaSurvivorsWaitingThreadOn demandValuing workStubborn survival4. Waistcoat: Colour and Cold WarLanguage islandGo WestPerforating the Iron Curtain?VestigeConclusion5. Cook’s uniform: Refashioning the social fabricRenewalReorientationBlue-collar museumHouse ghostsCostume/fashionConclusionConclusion: From unification to prefigurationCollection reconceptualizedOther futuresPrefigurative acquisitionConclusionBibliographyIndex
Weaving Europe challenges us to rethink the role of museums not only as spaces of preservation but also as sites of negotiation, resistance, and transformation ... [It] underscores the importance of integrating the histories and voices of marginalized communities in museum practices and highlights the potential for museums to become spaces that actively engage with contemporary issues of migration, identity, and social justice.