Science and Culture of Surfing

David is a world-leading Professor of Coastal Geomorphology based at the University of Melbourne, Australia. He grew up on the beaches of eastern Australia and was an active volunteer with Surf Life Saving Australia for over a decade conducting many rescues and preventative actions on the beaches of Sydney and Wollongong. He has received numerous awards including the 2020 Australian Museum Eureka Prize for Innovation in Citizen Science. His multidisciplinary approach to understanding the coast has led to regular media interviews for a global audience from print and digital media to mass-broadcast television.

• Chapter 1: Introduction.- Chapter 2: Origins of surfing.- Chapter 3: Why are there waves?- Chapter 4: What forms my break? -Chapter 5: Surf Safety and Hazard Management.- Chapter 6: Surfers as Rescuers.- Chapter 7: Surf Medicine.- Chapter 8: Surf Therapy.- Chapter 9: Sonic Waves and Acid Screens: Surf Culture and the long ‘70s.- Chapter 10: Digital disruption, generational change and the future of surf magazines.- Chapter 11: Surfing Feminism.- Chapter 12: Surf Tourism.- Chapter 13: Economics & Commercialisation.- Chapter 14: Surf Industry.- Chapter 15: The future of surfing.