Science and Culture of Surfing

Inbunden, Engelska, 2025

599 kr

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This volume explores all aspects of surfing from the underlying physics of waves, the shape of wave breaks through to the development of surf culture and its influence on society. It explores the links between science and engineering with arts, sociology and economics, all through the lens of surfing.

Produktinformation

Utgivningsdatum2025-03-30
Mått155 x 235 x 21 mm
Vikt657 g
FormatInbunden
SpråkEngelska
Antal sidor284
FörlagSpringer International Publishing AG
ISBN9783031809781

Tillhör följande kategorier

Geovetenskap inom Naturvetenskap och teknik
Vattensport inom Sport fritid och hobby
Kulturvetenskap inom Samhalle och politik
Geografi inom Naturvetenskap och teknik

David is a world-leading Professor of Coastal Geomorphology based at the University of Melbourne, Australia. He grew up on the beaches of eastern Australia and was an active volunteer with Surf Life Saving Australia for over a decade conducting many rescues and preventative actions on the beaches of Sydney and Wollongong. He has received numerous awards including the 2020 Australian Museum Eureka Prize for Innovation in Citizen Science. His multidisciplinary approach to understanding the coast has led to regular media interviews for a global audience from print and digital media to mass-broadcast television.

Chapter 1: Introduction.- Chapter 2: Origins of surfing.- Chapter 3: Why are there waves?- Chapter 4: What forms my break? -Chapter 5: Surf Safety and Hazard Management.- Chapter 6: Surfers as Rescuers.- Chapter 7: Surf Medicine.- Chapter 8: Surf Therapy.- Chapter 9: Sonic Waves and Acid Screens: Surf Culture and the long ‘70s.- Chapter 10: Digital disruption, generational change and the future of surf magazines.- Chapter 11: Surfing Feminism.- Chapter 12: Surf Tourism.- Chapter 13: Economics & Commercialisation.- Chapter 14: Surf Industry.- Chapter 15: The future of surfing.