Introduction to Textile Coloration

Principles and Practice

Häftad, Engelska, 2017

1 079 kr

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An Introduction to Textile Coloration: Principles and PracticeThe Publications Committee of the Society of Dyers and Colourists (SDC) has been aware for some time of the need to produce a book at an introductory level aimed at personnel working in textile dyeing or printing companies as well as those interested in entering into the field. The SDC runs a course for dyehouse technicians leading to the award of its Textile Coloration Certificate and this book is intended to be helpful for candidates following the course. Additionally, it will be helpful for professionals in textile companies who do not have a strong scientific background, so that they may attain a better understanding of the chemical principles of colour application.Starting with the basic science underlying dyeing and printing processes, this comprehensive book explains the fundamentals of dye and pigment chemistry and the various application techniques and processes. It offers chapter coverage of the general chemistry related to textiles, textile fibres, chemistry of dyes and pigments, industrial coloration methods, textile printing, theoretical aspects of dyeing, the measurement of colour and fastness testing. Reference is made to developments that have taken place in the coloration industry in recent years, not least of which have been the challenges imposed by the drive towards environmentally-friendly processes and restrictions on the use of certain chemicals.An Introduction to Textile Coloration: Principles and Practice Covers atomic structure, chemical reactions, and acids, bases, and saltsExplains the nature of fibre-forming polymers and the conversion of synthetic polymers into fibre filamentsEducates on the classification of colorants and the commercial naming of dyes and pigmentsIntroduces readers to the dye application processes and dyeing machineryInstructs on dye aggregation, factors affecting colour appearance, the principles of colour fastness testing, and more“…this is the sort of book any dyer, technician, student, academic will want to always have as an ready reference to everything pertaining to textile coloration.”Richard S. Blackburn, School of Design, University of Leeds, Leeds, LS2 9JT, UK

Produktinformation

Utgivningsdatum2017-11-03
Mått170 x 244 x 18 mm
Vikt726 g
FormatHäftad
SpråkEngelska
SerieSDC-Society of Dyers and Colourists
Antal sidor384
FörlagJohn Wiley & Sons Inc
ISBN9781119121565

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Society of Dyers and Colourists xiiiPreface xv1 General Chemistry Related to Textiles 11.1 Introduction 11.2 Atomic Structure 11.3 Periodic Table of the Elements 41.4 Valency and Bonding 61.4.1 Giving or Receiving of Electrons: Formation of Ionic Bonds 61.4.2 Sharing of Electrons: Formation of Covalent Bonds 81.4.3 Secondary Forces of Attraction 101.5 Chemical Reactions 131.5.1 Types of Chemical Reaction 131.5.2 Rates of Chemical Reactions and Chemical Equilibria 141.5.3 Effect of Temperature on Rate of Reaction 161.5.4 Catalysts 171.5.5 Thermodynamics of Reactions 191.5.5.1 The First Law of Thermodynamics 191.5.5.2 The Second Law of Thermodynamics 201.5.5.3 The Third Law of Thermodynamics 211.5.5.4 Free Energy 211.5.5.5 Interpreting Thermodynamic Data 221.6 Acids, Bases and Salts 231.6.1 Acids and Bases 231.6.2 The pH Scale 231.6.3 Salts and Salt Hydrolysis 241.6.4 Buffer Solutions 251.7 Redox Reactions 261.8 Organic Chemistry 271.8.1 The Hydrocarbons 271.8.1.1 Aliphatic Hydrocarbons 281.8.1.2 Aromatic Hydrocarbons 301.8.2 Functional Groups 321.8.3 Important Functional Groups of Aliphatic Compounds 321.8.3.1 Halides 321.8.3.2 Alcohols 331.8.3.3 Carboxylic Acids 341.8.3.4 Esters 351.8.3.5 Aldehydes and Ketones 361.8.3.6 Ethers 361.8.3.7 Amines 361.8.3.8 Cyano and Nitro Groups 381.8.4 Important Functional Groups of Aromatic Compounds 381.8.5 Important Compounds in Textile Dyeing 401.8.5.1 Sequestering Agents 401.8.5.2 Surface‐Active Agents (Surfactants) 411.8.5.3 Carriers 421.9 The Use of Chemicals by Industry 431.9.1 Reach 431.9.2 Effluent Disposal 442 Textile Fibres 472.1 Introduction 472.2 Nature of Fibre‐Forming Polymers 512.3 Properties of Textile Fibres 542.4 Mechanical Properties of Textile Fibres 542.4.1 Fibre Length 542.4.2 Fibre Fineness 542.4.3 Fibre Strength 552.5 Chemistry of the Main Fibre Types 572.5.1 Cellulosic Fibres 572.5.1.1 Cotton 572.5.1.2 Chemistry of Cotton 582.5.1.3 Morphology of Cotton 602.5.1.4 Properties of Cotton 622.5.1.5 Organic Cotton 642.5.2 Other Cellulosic Fibres 652.6 Protein Fibres 652.6.1 Wool 662.6.1.1 Chemistry of Wool 662.6.1.2 Morphology of Wool 702.6.1.3 Properties of Wool Fibres 722.6.1.4 Ecological Aspects 742.6.2 Hair Fibres 742.6.3 Silk 742.7 Regenerated Fibres 752.7.1 Early Developments 752.7.2 Viscose 762.7.3 Lyocell Fibres 772.7.4 Cellulose Acetate Fibres 792.7.5 Polylactic Acid Fibres 802.8 Synthetic Fibres 812.8.1 Condensation Polymers 822.8.1.1 Polyamide (Nylon) Fibres 822.8.1.2 Aramid Fibres 842.8.1.3 Polyester Fibres 852.8.1.4 Elastomeric Fibres 872.8.2 Addition Polymers 872.8.2.1 Polyolefin Fibres 872.8.2.2 Acrylic Fibres 892.9 Conversion of Synthetic Polymers into Fibre Filaments 902.10 Fibre Cross‐Sectional Shapes 922.11 Microfibres 932.12 Absorbent Fibres 942.13 Drawing of Synthetic Fibre Filaments 942.14 Conversion of Man‐Made Fibre Filaments to Staple 962.15 Imparting Texture to Synthetic Fibres 962.16 Fibre Blends 972.17 Textile Manufacturing 992.17.1 Yarns 992.17.2 Fabrics 992.17.2.1 Woven Fabrics 1002.17.2.2 Knitted Fabrics 103Suggested Further Reading 1053 Chemistry of Dyes and Pigments 1073.1 Introduction 1073.2 Classification of Colorants 1073.3 Colour in Organic Molecules 1103.4 Classification of Dyes According to Chemical Structure 1133.4.1 Azo Dyes 1133.4.2 Anthraquinone Dyes 1153.4.3 Methine and Polymethine Dyes 1163.4.4 Nitro Dyes 1163.4.5 Triarylmethane Dyes 1173.5 Classification of Dyes According to Application Class 1173.5.1 Dyes for Protein Fibres 1173.5.1.1 Acid Dyes 1173.5.1.2 Mordant Dyes 1203.5.1.3 Pre‐metallised (or Metal‐Complex) Dyes 1213.5.1.4 Reactive Dyes 1233.5.1.5 Summary 1263.5.2 Dyes for Cellulosic Fibres 1273.5.2.1 Direct Dyes 1273.5.2.2 Vat Dyes 1283.5.2.3 Solubilised Vat Dyes 1293.5.2.4 Reactive Dyes 1303.5.2.5 Sulphur Dyes 1343.5.2.6 Azoic Dyes 1363.5.3 Dyes for Synthetic Fibres 1373.5.3.1 Disperse Dyes 1373.5.3.2 Basic Dyes 1383.5.4 Pigments 1393.6 Commercial Naming of Dyes and Pigments 1413.7 Strength and Physical Form of Colorants 141References 1424 Industrial Coloration Methods 1434.1 Introduction 1434.2 Dye Application Processes 1434.2.1 Wool Dyeing 1434.2.1.1 Acid Dyes 1434.2.1.2 Chrome Dyes 1454.2.1.3 Pre‐metallised Dyes 1474.2.1.4 Reactive Dyes 1494.2.1.5 Summary 1504.2.2 Cellulosic Fibre Dyeing 1514.2.2.1 Introduction 1514.2.2.2 Direct Dyes 1524.2.2.3 Vat Dyes 1544.2.2.4 Reactive Dyes 1574.2.2.5 Sulphur Dyes 1614.2.2.6 Azoic Dyes 1624.2.3 Polyester Fibre Dyeing 1624.2.4 Nylon Fibre Dyeing 1674.2.4.1 Disperse Dyes 1674.2.4.2 Acid Dyes 1674.2.4.3 Reactive Dyes 1704.2.5 Acrylic Fibre Dyeing 1714.2.5.1 Basic (Cationic) Dyes 1714.2.5.2 Disperse Dyes 1724.2.6 Polypropylene Fibre Dyeing 1724.2.7 Dyeing Fibre Blends 1724.2.7.1 Wool Fibre Blends 1724.2.7.2 Cotton Fibre Blends 1744.3 Dyeing Machinery 1764.3.1 Introduction 1764.3.2 Dyeing Loose Fibre 1784.3.3 Top Dyeing 1794.3.4 Yarn Dyeing 1804.3.4.1 Package Dyeing 1804.3.4.2 Beam Dyeing for Yarns 1834.3.4.3 Hank Dyeing 1854.3.5 Fabric Dyeing 1874.3.5.1 Winch Dyeing 1874.3.5.2 Jig Dyeing 1884.3.5.3 Beam Dyeing of Fabric 1914.3.5.4 Jet Dyeing 1924.3.6 Garment Dyeing 1944.3.6.1 Side‐Paddle Machines 1954.3.6.2 Rotating Drum Machines 1964.3.7 Continuous Dyeing 1974.4 Supercritical Fluid Dyeing 199References 201Suggested Further Reading 2025 Textile Printing 2035.1 Introduction 2035.2 Print Paste Formulation 2045.3 Thickeners 2055.3.1 Natural Products 2055.3.1.1 Starch‐Based Thickeners 2065.3.1.2 Alginates 2065.3.1.3 Xanthans 2065.3.2 Modified Natural Products 2085.3.2.1 Carboxymethyl Cellulose 2085.3.3 Synthetic Products 2085.3.3.1 Emulsions 2085.4 Binders 2095.5 Pigments and Dyes 2095.5.1 Pigments 2105.5.2 Dyes 2115.6 Printing Screens 2125.6.1 Flat Screens 2125.6.2 Rotary Screens 2135.6.3 Engraved Rollers 2145.7 Stages of Printing 2155.7.1 Transport 2155.7.2 Fixation (Dye‐Based Prints) 2165.7.3 Wash‐Off (Dye‐Based Prints) 2175.7.4 Pigment Prints 2175.8 Printing Styles 2175.8.1 Direct Printing 2185.8.2 Discharge Printing 2185.8.3 Resist Printing 2205.9 Printing Methods 2215.9.1 Flat Screen Printing 2215.9.2 Rotary Screen Printing 2215.9.3 Copper Roller Printing 2235.9.4 Heat Transfer Printing 2245.9.5 Ink Jet Printing 2255.9.5.1 Continuous Ink Jet Technology 2265.9.5.2 Thermal Ink Jet Printing 2265.9.5.3 Piezo Ink Jet Printing 2275.9.6 Comparisons between Ink Jet Printing and Screen Printing 228Suggested Further Reading 2296 Theoretical Aspects of Dyeing 2316.1 Introduction 2316.2 Kinetic Aspects of Dyeing 2326.3 Dye Aggregation 2356.4 Diffusion 2436.4.1 Measurement of the Diffusion Coefficient of Dyes 2446.4.2 Activation Energy of Diffusion 2466.5 Rate of Dyeing 2476.6 Adsorption 2506.6.1 Physical Adsorption 2506.6.2 Chemical Adsorption (Chemisorption) 2526.6.3 Adsorption Isotherms 2526.7 Thermodynamic Information Derived from Equilibrium Studies of Dyeing Systems 2566.7.1 Standard Affinity, Standard Enthalpy and Standard Entropy of Dyeing 2566.7.2 Determination of Thermodynamic Values for the Three Dye/Fibre System Types 258References 276Suggested Further Reading 2767 The Measurement of Colour 2777.1 Introduction 2777.2 Describing Colour 2777.3 Additive and Subtractive Colour Mixing 2787.3.1 Additive Colour Mixing 2787.3.2 Subtractive Colour Mixing 2797.4 The Colour Solid 2807.5 Factors Affecting Colour Appearance 2847.5.1 Light Sources 2857.5.1.1 Colour Temperature of Light Sources 2887.5.1.2 Standard Illuminants 2887.5.2 Reflection 2907.5.3 The Eye 2957.6 The CIE System of Colour Specification 2977.6.1 The Standard Observer 2977.6.2 Specification of Surface Colours in the CIE XYZ System 2997.6.3 Interpretation of Tristimulus Values 3027.7 Applications of the CIE System 3047.7.1 Colorant Formulation 3047.7.2 Colour‐Difference Formulae 3107.7.3 Assessment of Metamerism 3167.7.4 Assessment of Colour Constancy 3177.7.5 Colour Sorting 3197.7.6 Measurement of Whiteness 3217.8 Solution Colour Measurement 322Suggested Further Reading 3268 Fastness Testing 3278.1 Introduction 3278.2 Standards Related to Coloration 3288.3 Resistance of Coloured Fabric to Harmful Agencies 3308.4 Principles of Colour Fastness Testing 3318.4.1 The ISO Standards Outlining the General Principles 3318.4.2 Grey Scales 3318.4.3 Standard Depths 3348.5 Fastness Tests 3368.5.1 Light Fastness Tests 3368.5.2 Washing Fastness Tests 3388.5.3 Rubbing Fastness 3408.5.4 Other Fastness Tests 3418.5.4.1 Fastness to Water 3418.5.4.2 Fastness to Seawater 3418.5.4.3 Fastness to Chlorinated Water (Swimming Pool Water) 3418.5.4.4 Fastness to Perspiration 3428.5.4.5 Fastness to Dry Cleaning Using Perchloroethylene Solvent 3428.5.5 Miscellaneous Fastness Tests 3428.6 Test Organisations for Sustainable Textile Manufacture 343References 343Appendix Some Textile Terms and Definitions 345Index 347

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