Handbook of Renewable Materials for Coloration and Finishing

Mohd Yusuf received his PhD from the Jamia Millia Islamia University, New Delhi, India in 2013. He is now an Assistant Professor at D/O Chemistry, YMD College, M. D. University, Nuh, Haryana, India. He has published more than 40 publications including research and review articles, as well as book chapters in edited volumes.

• Preface xixPart I: Substrates for Coloration and Finishing 11 An Introduction to Textile Fibers: An Overview 3Mohd Shabbir and Faqeer Mohammad1.1 Introduction 31.2 Classification 41.2.1 Natural Fibers 51.2.2 Synthetic Fibers 51.2.3 Semi-Synthetic Fibers 61.3 Conclusion 6References 72 Effect of Processing and Type of Mechanical Loading on Performance of Bio-Fibers and Bio-Composites 9Vijay Chaudhary and Pramendra Kumar Bajpai2.1 Introduction 92.2 Extraction of Bio-Fibers 102.3 Mechanical Loading 122.4 Tensile Test 142.5 Flexural Test 152.6 Impact Test 152.7 Tribological Performance 162.8 Conclusion 16References 173 Mechanical and Chemical Structure of Natural Protein Fibers: Wool and Silk 19Mohd Yusuf3.1 Introduction 193.2 Wool 203.2.1 Physical Properties 203.2.2 Chemical Properties 213.2.3 Morphology 223.2.4 Chemical Structure 243.3 Silk 313.3.1 Physical properties 313.3.2 Chemical Properties 333.3.3 Morphology 343.3.4 Chemical Structure 363.4 Conclusion 38References 38Part II: Renewable Colorants and their Applications: Revolutionary Approach 414 Animal Based Natural Dyes: A Short Review 43Shahid Adeel, Sana Rafi, Muhammad Abdul Mustaan, Mahwish Salman and Abdul Ghaffar4.1 Introduction of Natural Dyes 444.2 Sustainability of Natural Dyes 454.3 Classification of Natural Dyes 464.4 Animal Based Natural Dyes 474.4.1 Cochineal 474.4.1.1 Polish Cochineal 494.4.1.2 Armenian Cochineal 504.4.2 Kermes 504.4.3 Lac Insect 514.4.4 Sea Snails 534.4.4.1 Bolinusbrandaris 534.4.4.2 Hexaplex trunculus 544.4.4.3 Stramonita haemastoma 544.5 Extraction Methodology 564.6 Application of Animal Based Dyes 604.6.1 Textile 604.6.2 Dye Sensitized Solar Cells 624.6.3 Food 634.6.4 Pharmaceuticals 644.6.5 Nano-technological Image 644.7 Future Prospects 654.8 Conclusion 66Acknowledgment 66References 665 Natural Dyes and Pigments: Extraction and Applications 75Rym Mansour5.1 Introduction 755.2 Classification of Natural Dyes 775.2.1 Classification Based on Color 775.2.1.1 Red 775.2.1.2 Blue 775.2.1.3 Yellow 775.2.1.4 Green 785.2.1.5 Black and Brown 785.2.1.6 Orange 785.2.2 Classification Based on Chemical Constitution 785.2.2.1 Anthraquinone Dyes 785.2.2.2 Indigoid Dyes 795.2.2.3 Carotenoid Dyes 795.2.2.4 Flavonoid Dyes 795.2.2.5 Dihydropyran Dyes 795.2.3 Classification Based on Application 805.2.3.1 Mordant Dyes 805.2.3.2 Vat Dyes 805.2.3.3 Direct Dyes 805.2.3.4 Acid Dyes 815.2.3.5 Basic Dyes 815.2.3.6 Disperse Dyes 815.2.4 Classification Based on Origin 815.2.4.1 Plants 815.2.4.2 Minerals 825.2.4.3 Animals 825.3 Extraction of Natural Dyes 825.3.1 Extraction Methods 825.3.1.1 Aqueous Extraction 825.3.1.2 Acid and Alkali Extraction Process 835.3.1.3 Ultrasonic and Microwave Extraction 845.3.1.4 Fermentation 845.3.1.5 Enzymatic Extraction 855.3.1.6 Solvent Extraction 855.3.1.7 Supercritical Fluid Extraction 865.4 Natural Dyes Application 865.4.1 Textile, Medicinal and Herbal Applications 865.4.1.1 Quinones 875.4.1.2 Anthraquinones 875.4.1.3 Naphthoquinones 885.4.1.4 Anthocyanins 895.4.1.5 Usnic Acid 895.4.1.6 Tannins 905.4.2 Natural Dyes in Food Coloration 905.4.3 UV-protective Finishing 925.4.4 Insect Repellent Finishing 935.4.5 Natural Dyes in Dye-sensitized Solar Cells 945.5 Other Applications of Natural Dyes 955.6 Conclusion and Future Outlook 96References 976 Lichen Derived Natural Colorants: History, Extraction, and Applications 103Luqman Jameel Rather,, Salman Jameel Rather, Showkat Ali Ganie and Khursheed Ahmad Bhat6.1 Introduction 1036.2 History 1056.3 Lichen Dyes and Industrial Revolution 1066.4 Extraction 1076.5 Dye Stuffs from Lichens 1076.5.1 Lichen Dyestuffs: Orchils and Litmus 1106.6 Yellowish, Brownish and Reddish Colorants from Lichen 1106.7 Ways of Dyeing with Lichens 1116.8 Future Prospectus and Conclusion 111Acknowledgement 112References 1127 Chlorophylls as Pigment: A Contemporary Approach 115Shafat Ahmad Khan, Mohd Yusuf, Pooja Agarwal and Lalit Prasad7.1 Introduction 1167.2 Molecular Structure and Physico-chemical Characterization 1177.3 Coloring Aspects 1197.4 Characterization and Quality Control 1207.5 Conclusion and Future Outlook 121References 1228 Contemporary Revolutions in Natural Dyes: Extraction and Dyeing Methodology 125Fazal-ur-Rehman, Shahid Adeel, Sana Rafi, Noman Habib, Khalid Mahmood Zia, Mohammad Zuber and Nasim Akhtar8.1 Introduction 1268.2 Pros and Cons of Natural Dyes 1278.3 Classification of Natural Dyes 1298.3.1 Plant Based Natural Dyes 1298.3.1.1 Pomegranate 1298.3.1.2 Australian Pine 1308.3.1.3 Bush Grape 1308.3.1.4 Butterfly Pea 1308.3.1.5 Mugavu 1318.3.1.6 Jackfruit 1328.3.1.7 Larkspur 1348.3.1.8 Tee Oil Plant 1358.3.1.9 Chaste Tree 1368.3.1.10 Chinese Sumac 1378.3.1.11 Limoniastrum Monopetalum 1378.3.1.12 Yerba Mate 1378.3.1.13 Camphor Tree 1388.3.1.14 Basil 1398.3.1.15 Fennel 1398.3.1.16 Indian Paper Plant 1408.3.1.17 Guava 1408.3.1.18 Scarlet Sage 1418.3.1.19 Sandalwood 1428.3.1.20 Centaury 1428.4 Extraction Methodology 1448.4.1 Conventional Methods 1458.4.2 Modern Methods 1468.5 Exploration of New Plants Using Modern Tools to Maintain Sustainability 1508.5.1 Harmal 1508.5.2 Saffron 1528.5.3 Madder 1528.5.4 Safflower 1538.5.5 Arjun 1548.5.6 Chicken Gizzard 1568.5.7 Red Calico 1568.5.8 Golden Duranta 1578.5.9 Marigold 1578.5.10 Milk Weed 1598.5.11 Neem 1608.6 Conclusion 161Acknowledgment 161References 1619 A Review on Phytochemistry, Pharmacological and Coloring Potential of Lawsonia inermis 169Mohd Yusuf9.1 Introduction 1699.2 Phytochemistry 1719.2.1 Phenolics 1719.2.1.2 Naphthoquinones 1719.2.1.3 Naphthalenes 1729.2.1.4 Acetylenes 1739.2.1.5 Alkyl Phenones 1749.2.1.6 Xanthones 1759.2.1.7 Coumarins 1759.2.1.8 Tannins 1769.2.1.9 Lignans 1769.2.1.10 Others 1769.2.2 Terpenoids 1789.2.3 Steroids 1789.2.4 Alkaloids 1789.2.5 Miscellaneous Compounds 1799.3 Pharmacological Potential 1819.4 Coloring Potential 1829.5 Conclusion and Future Outlook 184References 18410 Sustainable Application of Natural Dyes in Cosmetic Industry 189Shahid Adeel, Shazia Abrar, Shumaila Kiran,,Tahir Farooq, Tahsin Gulzar and Mubeen Jamal10.1 Introduction 19010.2 Classification of Natural Dyes 19110.2.1 Sources of Origin 19110.2.1.1 Plant Origin 19110.2.1.2 Animal Origin 19510.2.1.3 Mineral Origin 19510.2.1.4 Microbial Origin 19510.3 Application of Natural Dyes in Cosmetics 19610.3.1 Natural Lip Cosmetics 19610.3.2 Natural Hair Dyes 19710.4 Methods of Application as Hair Colorant 19910.5 Natural Dyes as Hair Colorant 20010.5.1 Henna (Lawsonia inermis Linn) 20010.5.2 Indigo (Indigoferatinctoria) 20210.5.3 Shoe Flower (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis L.) 20310.5.4 Amla (EmblicaofficinalisLinn) 20510.5.5 Beet (Beta Vulgaris) 20610.6 Advantages/Merits 20610.7 Disadvantages/Demerits 20710.8 Conclusion 207Acknowledgments 208References 20811 Application of Natural Dyes to Cotton and Jute Textiles: Science and Technology and Environmental Issues 213Ashis Kumar Samanta11.1 Introduction 21411.2 Extraction of Color Solution from the Sources of Natural Dyes 21611.3 Purification of Selected Natural Dyes 21611.4 Testing and Characterization of Purified Natural Dyes Before its Application to Textiles 21711.4.1 UV-VIS Spectral Analysis of Aqueous Extracted Solution of Natural Dyes 21711.4.2 FTIR Spectral Analysis 21711.4.3 Analysis of DSC-Thermo Grams 21811.5 Mechanism of Complex Formation Amongst Dye-Mordant and Fiber for Fixation of Natural Dyes on Different Fibers 22111.6 Technological Aspects of Natural Dyeing to Cotton and Jute: Effect of Different Mordants 22611.6.2 Effect of Selective Single and Double Mordanting on Jute and Cotton Fabrics for Natural Dyeing 22711.6.2 Effect of Dyeing Process Variables for Optimizing the Dyeing Conditions 24511.7 Study of Dyeing Kinetics for Dyeing Jack fruit Wood on Cotton and Jute fabrics 25411.7.2 Dye Affinity 25511.7.3 Dyeing Absorption Isotherm 25711.7.4 Heat (Enthalpy) of Dyeing 26011.7.5 Entropy of Dyeing and Gibb’s Free Energy 26111.8 Study of Compatibility of Binary and Ternary Mixture of Natural dyes to Obtain Compound Shade 26211.9 Test of Compatibility for Selected Binary Mixture of Natural Dyes 26311.9.2 Newer Proposed Method of Test of Compatibility (Method-II) 26411.9 Some Recent Studies on Natural Dyes for Textiles 27411.10 Conclusions 275References 27612 Bio-Colorants as Photosensitizers for Dye Sensitized Solar Cell (DSSC) 279Pooja Agarwal, Mohd Yusuf, Shafat Ahmed Khan and Lalit Prasad12.1 Introduction 27912.2 Operational Principle of the DSSCs 28112.3 DSSC Components 28312.3.1 Semiconductor Film Electrode 28312.3.2 Electrolyte 28512.3.2.1 Liquid Electrolyte 28512.3.2.2 Solid State Electrolytes 28712.3.2.3 Quasi-Solid Electrolyte 28712.3.3 Counter Electrode 28812.3.4 Photosensitizers 28912.3.4.1 Metal Complex Sensitizer 28912.3.4.2 Metal-Free Organic Sensitizer 29012.3.4.3 Natural Sensitizer/Natural Dye/Natural Pigments 29112.4 Conclusion and Future Outlook 297References 298Part III: Advanced Materials and Technologies for Coloration and Finishing 30113 Advanced Materials and Technologies for Antimicrobial Finishing of Cellulosic Textiles 303Nabil A. Ibrahim, Basma M. Eid and Faten H. H. Abdellatif13.1 Cellulosic Fibers 30313.2 Wet Processing of Cellulosic Textiles 30413.2.1 Pre-treatment 30413.2.2 Coloration 30613.2.3 Finishing 30613.3 Antimicrobial Finishing of Cellulosic Textiles 30713.3.1 Criteria for Proper Antimicrobial Agents 31013.3.2 Best Available Techniques 31013.4 Traditional Antimicrobial Finishing Chemicals, Application Method, Disadvantages 31113.4.1 Synthetic Antimicrobial Agents 31113.4.1.1 Quaternary Ammonium Compounds 31113.4.1.2 Poly (hexamethylenebiguanide) (PHMB) 31213.4.1.3 N-Halamine Compounds 31313.4.1.4 Triclosan 31413.4.2 Natural Antimicrobial Agents 31413.4.2.1 Chitosan 31513.5 Advanced Antimicrobial Agents 32013.5.1 Antimicrobial Agent Based on Natural Products 32013.5.2 Advanced Antimicrobial Agents Based on Nano-materials 32713.5.2.1 Silver Nanoparticles AgNPs 32913.5.2.2 Tianium Dioxide Nanoparticle (TiO2NPs) 33313.5.2.3 Zinc Oxide Nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) 33513.5.2.4 Cuprousoxide Nanoparticle (Cu2ONPs) 33513.5.3 Nan composites and Hybrid Materials 33613.6 Evaluation of Antimicrobial Products 33613.7 Conclusion and Future Prospects 336Reference 34514 Bio-macromolecules: A New Flame Retardant Finishing Strategy for Textiles 357Giulio Malucelli14.1 Introduction 35714.2 The Role of Bio-macromolecules as Flame Retardant Systems: Structure-Property Relationships 36314.2.1 Whey Proteins 36414.2.2 Caseins 36714.2.3 Hydrophobins 37114.2.4 Nucleic Acids 37414.2.5 Other Bio-macromolecules: A Quick Recent Overview 38014.3 Current Limitations 38114.4 Conclusions and Future Perspectives 382Acknowledgements 382Reference 38315 Significant Trends in Nano Finishes for Improvement of Functional Properties of Fabrics 387N. Gokarneshan and K. Velumani15.1 Introduction 38815.2 Significance of Nanotechnology 38915.3 Application of Nanotechnology in Textiles 38915.4 Nanotechnology for Improved Fabric Finishing 39215.5 Problem Associated with Nanotechnology 39315.6 Nano Safe Textile Finishes with Papaya Peel and Silver 39315.6.1 Overview 39315.6.2 Related Aspects 39315.6.3 Analysis of UV Visible Spectra 39415.6.4 Dynamic Light Scattering 39515.6.5 Evaluation of Antibacterial Activity of Textile Material 39615.7 Plasma Induced Finishes for Multifunctional Properties 39715.7.1 Overview 39715.7.2 Related Aspects 39715.7.3 Ultra Violet Protection 39815.7.4 Flame Retardant Properties 39915.7.5 Thermo-Gravimetric Analysis 40015.7.6 Morphology of Surface 40115.7.7 Antibacterial Properties 40115.7.8 Crease Recovery Angle 40115.7.9 Surface Chemical Changes 40215.7.10 Tensile Properties 40315.8 Nano Finishes Adopting Green Approach 40315.8.1 Overview 40315.8.2 Related Aspects 40315.8.3 Release of Silver Nano Particle 40515.8.4 Anti-Microbial Activity 40515.9 Multi Functional Nano Finish on Denim Fabrics 40615.9.1 Overview 40615.9.2 Related Aspects 40715.9.3 Characterization of Nanoparticles 40815.9.4 Characterization of Treated Fabric 40815.10 Role of Silk Sericin in Nano Finishing with Silver Particles 41015.10.1 Overview 41015.10.2 Related Aspects 41115.10.3 Characterization of Silver Nanoparticles 41115.10.4 Importance of Sericin asCapping Agent 41215.10.5 Application of Silver Nano Particles as Antibacterial Agent 41315.11 Improvement in Coloration and Antimicrobial Properties in Silk Fabrics with Aqueous Binders 41315.11.1 Overview 41315.11.2 Related Aspects 41415.11.3 Analysis of Polyurethane Acrylate 41415.11.4 Influence of PUA Concentration on K/S Value 41515.11.5 Influence of Titanium Dioxide Concentration on K/S Value 41515.11.6 UV Protection 41515.11.7 Antimicrobial Property 41615.11.8 Wrinkle Resistance 41715.11.9 Fiber Surface 41715.11.10 Fastness Properties 41715.12 Nanoparticles for Improving Flame Retardant Properties of Fabrics 41815.13 Application of Herbal Synthesized Silver Nano Particles on Cotton Fabric 42015.14 Conclusion 422References 42316 Rot Resistance and Antimicrobial Finish of Cotton Khadi Fabrics 435Tapas Ranjan Kar16.1 Introduction 43616.2 Anti Microbial Treatment 43916.3 Some Important Study on Eco-friendly Antimicrobial Finishing of Cotton Khadi Fabric 44016.3.2 Reaction Scheme 44516.3.3 Crease Recovery and Stiffness 45316.3.4 Appearance Properties 45516.4 Effect of Varying Concentration Level of Chitosan and PEG for Application of Mixture of Chitosan and PEG on Microbial and Other Properties of Cotton Khadi Fabric with CA and SHP as Mixed Catalyst and Their Optimization 45516.5 Characterization of Control and Treated Cotton Fabrics by FTIR, TGA, and X-RD Analysis 46016.5.1 Analysis of FTIR Spectra for Untreated and Treated Cotton Khadi Fabric with PEG and its Mixture 46016.5.2 Characterization of Thermal Stability of the Control and Treated Fabric 46316.5.3 X-ray Diffraction of Untreated and Treated Fabrics with CA and SHP as Catalyst 46516.6 Study of Residual Antimicrobial Effect after Repeated Washing Cycles 46616.7 Analysis of Surface Properties by SEM 46716.8 Conclusion 46716.8.1 Ranking Index of Different Treatments on Loss of Tenacity and Antimicrobial Reduction Percentage Values 468Acknowledgement 469Reference 46917 Advanced Technologies for Coloration and Finishing Using Nanotechnology 473Abdul Azeez Nazeer, Saravanan Dhandapani and Sudarshana Deepa Vijaykumar17.1 Introduction 47417.2 Nanoparticles in Dyes 47417.2.1 Plasma Technology 47517.2.1.1 Coloration of Plasma-Treated Polyester Fibers 47617.2.1.2 Coloration of Plasma-Treated Wool Fibers 47617.2.1.3 Coloration of Plasma-Treated Cotton Fibers 47617.3 Nano Finishing 47717.3.1 Hydrophobic Finishing 47717.3.2 Antimicrobial Finishing 48017.3.3 Self Cleaning Finishing 48217.3.4 Flame Retardent 48517.3.5 UV Protecting Finishing 48717.3.6 Wrinkle Resistant 48817.4 Encapsulation Technology 48917.4.1 Application of Microcapsules on Textile Industry 49517.5 Conclusion 497References 49718 Sol–Gel Flame Retardant and/or Antimicrobial Finishings for Cellulosic Textiles 501Giulio Malucelli18.1 Introduction 50218.2 The Sol–Gel Process 50418.2.1 Sol–gel Fully Inorganic Coatings 50618.2.2 Phosphorus-Doped Sol–Gel Coatings 50918.2.3 Smoke Suppressant Sol–Gel Coating Formulations 51018.2.4 Hybrid Organic–Inorganic Sol–Gel Coatings 51118.2.5 Antibacterial Effects Provided by Sol–Gel Coatings 51318.3 Current Limitations 51518.4 Conclusions and Future Outlook 515References 516Part IV: Sustainability 52119 Sustainable Coloration and Value Addition to Textiles 523S. Basak, Kartick K. Samanta, S. K. Chattopadhyay and P. Pandit19.1 Introduction 52419.2 Sustainable Coloration of Textile Materials 52519.2.2 Naturally Colored Cotton 52618.2.3 Natural Dye from Plants 52719.2.4 Sustainable Synthetic Color 53019.2.5 Easy Care Finishing of Textile Products 53119.3 Antimicrobial Finishing of Textiles 53219.4 Flame Retardant Finishing of Textile 53519.5 UV Protective Textile 53719.6 Mosquito, Insect and Moth Repellent Finishing of Textile 53819.7 Irradiation-Induced Value Addition to Textiles 53919.8 Enzyme-Based Textile Pretreatment 54019.9 Bio-mimic Based Value Addition to Textile 54119.10 Conclusion and Future Outlook 543References 54320 Interconnection Between Biotechnology and Textile: A New Horizon of Sustainable Technology 549Aranya Mallick20.1 Introduction 54920.2 Influence of Bioprocess on Textile 55020.2.1 Fibers and Polymers 55120.2.1.1 Modified Cotton 55120.2.1.2 Biopolymers 55220.2.1.3 Thermoplastic Polymers Derived from Natural Sources 55520.2.2 Pretreatment 55720.2.2.1 Desizing 55820.2.2.2 Scouring 55920.2.2.3 Bleaching 55920.2.2.4 Peroxide Killing 55920.2.3 Dyes and Dyeing 56020.2.3.1 Natural Dyes and Dyeing 56020.2.3.2 Bacteria Derived Pigments 56120.2.4 After or Post-treatment 56120.2.5 Decolorization of Textile Dyes Waste 56220.2.6 Biosurfactants 56320.2.7 Antimicrobial Activities and the Tests 56320.2.8 Textile Detergent 56520.3 Influence of Textile on Biotechnology 56520.3.1 Filtration 56520.3.2 Immobilization 56520.3.3 Protective Textile 56720.3.3.1 Air Permeable Material 56720.3.3.2 Semipermeable Material 56720.3.3.3 Impermeable Material 56720.3.3.4 Selective Permeable Membrane 56820.4 Conclusion 568References 568Index 000