An open access book, Antigender Fashion is a rich examination of gender fluidity in contemporary fashion design, Judith Beyer develops an emerging new theoretical framework for understanding how fashion can blur and challenge gender boundaries.How is gender fluidity in contemporary fashion different from 20th century androgyny or millennial unisex styles? Like antifashion, which opposes and challenges fashion, Beyer argues that antigender fashion seeks to dismantle and confront binary gender signifiers. After tracing the history of gender-blurring fashion from Marlene Dietrich’s androgynous tailoring to Alessandro Michele’s floral Gucci suits, case studies of four high-profile fashion brands reveal the diverse approaches to gender-fluidity in contemporary fashion.Investigating each case study through multiple theoretical perspectives – from gender studies to gothic horror, cyborg theory to Afrofuturism – Beyer situates antigender fashion in a rich theoretical landscape and illuminates exciting new critical directions for students and researchers. Can antigender fashion influence the construction of contemporary masculinities and femininities – and can it be a catalyst for change?The ebook editions of this book are available open access under a CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 licence on bloomsburycollections.com. Open access was funded by the Bloomsbury Open Collections Library Collective.
Judith Beyer is a fashion scholar and educator. Her research focuses on the intersections of fashion, culture, and identity, particularly gender fluidity and masculinities in contemporary fashion design. She has published in several journals, including Fashion, Style and Popular Culture, ZoneModa and the Journal of Bodies, Sexualities, and Masculinities.
List of FiguresAcknowledgementsIntroductionMethodologyCase Study ApproachMaterials and Data GatheringInternet-Mediated ResearchOutline1 Troubling Gender: On the Proliferation of Gender and the Performativity of FashionSex, Gender, and PerformativityTrans* and the Proliferation of GenderThe Performativity of Fashion: Fashion’s System of Signification in Post-Postmodernity2 Tracing Fluidity: Understanding Moments of Gender-Blurring FashionMoment I: Bohemians in the Nineteenth CenturyMoment II: Female Masculinities in the 1920sMoment III: Youth and Countercultures of the 1960s and 1970sMoment IV: Ck One, Unisex, and Millennial Masculinities3 Antigender Fashion; or, Why Can’t Girls Have Dicks and Boys Have Boobs?Anti-Fashion and Subculture: Anti-Fashion as ‘Confrontational’ DressAnti-Fashion and Queerness: Anti-Fashion as Oppositional DressAnti-Fashion and Feminism: Anti-Fashion as ProtestPhilosophical Perspectives on Anti-Fashion: A Dialectical ApproachFrom Anti-Fashion to Antigender Fashion4 JW Anderson: The Architecture of Antigender FashionMillennial Masculinity and JW Anderson’s BeginningsMoment I: (Re-)Building the Architecture of Man and WomanMoment II: Out of Proportion or Fashioning the Grotesque Antigendered BodyMoment III: The Camp, the Carnival, the Surreal of Antigender Fashion5 Alessandro Michele and Gucci: The Bricolage of Antigender FashionGender Fluidity Goes Mainstream: The Making and Breaking of GucciMoment I: Gucci’s New Man – Antigender Fashion and the Floral SuitMoment II: Time Leaps, Détournement, and MemoryMoment III: The Bricolage, the Cyborg, and the Post-Human of Antigender6 Art School: Dressing the Queer and Antigendered BodyDesigning with and within London’s Queer/Trans* CommunityMoment I: Performing Fashion, Performing Queerness – Staging Antigender FashionMoment II: Antigender Bodies In-Between – Dressing Intersectionalities or the Trans*, Ageing, Fat, and Disabled BodyMoment III: On Gothic Queer Cultures – the Uncanny Horror in Art School’s AntigenderFashion7 No Sesso: Styling the Black, Antigendered, and Afrofuturist BodyOn Disidentification and Designing for an Inclusive FutureMoment I: Antigender StreetwearMoment II: Reusing, Recycling, and RememberingMoment III: Antigender and AfrofuturismConclusionReferencesIndex