Textile-led Design for the Active Ageing Population

Since establishing a unique Masters programme in Performance Sportswear Design (University of Derby, 1995-2003) and then leading research in Smart Clothes and Wearable Technology (University of Wales, Newport, 2004-2012), Jane’s practice has continued to be focused on co-design methodology, bringing together representatives from academia and industry, along with end-users, where a new ‘shared language’ is required to break down barriers between disparate disciplines. She was the recipient of the ‘Sir Misha Black Award for Innovation in Design Education’ (2003), presented at the Royal College of Art, and awarded her Professorship from the University of Wales, Newport (2012). Her cross-disciplinary approach led to Erasmus exchanges, Leonardo projects, publication and continuing academic engagement in China. Both during her time in academia, and since working as an independent design and research consultant, back in Northern Ireland (from 2014 onwards), the need for more responsible, sustainable, and user-friendly product development has escalated in relation to her on-going areas of interest in the design of functional clothing as well as in Natural Fibre Composites design applications. David Bryson is a Senior Lecturer in the Human Sciences Research Centre at the University of Derby, UK. His research interests include the use of scientific photography and multimedia to support learning teaching and assessment in applied science, anatomy and osteology.

• The Textile Institute and Woodhead PublishingList of contributorsWoodhead Publishing Series in TextilesPart One. Understanding the active ageing population1. Technological culture and the active ageing: a lifetime of technological advances1.1. Introduction1.2. Learning and teaching1.3. Photography, audiovisual technologies, and e-learning1.4. Implications for the active ageing1.5. Conclusions1.6. Sources of further information and advice2. Clothing, identity, embodiment and age2.1. Introduction: clothing, social identity and age2.2. Age ordering2.3. Age-related clothing2.4. The changing cultural location of older people2.5. Baby boomers2.6. Casual dress2.7. Adjusting the cut2.8. Conclusion3. Attitudes to apparel amongst the baby boomer generation3.1. Introduction3.2. The baby boomers and the growth of marketing3.3. Baby boomers and their interaction with apparel and textiles3.4. Market implications3.5. Current lifestyle trends for the baby boomers and product needs for the future3.6. Conclusion4. The importance of colour in textiles and clothing for an ageing population4.1. Introduction4.2. Attitudes towards colour amongst the active ageing4.3. The colour selection process for clothing4.4. Colour forecasting4.5. Classic and changing colours4.6. How the colour selection process starts: designers and inspiration4.7. Sharing information: the case of the British Textile Colour Group4.8. How colour palettes are used4.9. From colour palette to product4.10. Conclusion5. The adoption and nonadoption of new technologies by the active ageing5.1. Introduction5.2. Technological use by the active ageing5.3. Internet access in care and nursing homes5.4. Internet access, leisure activities, and the active ageing5.5. How do the active ageing adopt new technologies?5.6. Wearable technology and the active ageing5.7. Tablet technologies and the active ageing5.8. Social media, communities, and the active ageing5.9. Conclusions5.10. Sources of further information and advicePart Two. Understanding and researching apparel needs amongst the active ageing population6. Qualitative and quantitative methods applied in active ageing6.1. Introduction6.2. Meaning and interpretation6.3. Knowledge acquisition6.4. Qualitative research methodologies6.5. Survey techniques6.6. Direct contact information-gathering techniques6.7. Qualitative analysis techniques6.8. Quantitative survey development6.9. Research ethics6.10. Qualitative research aspects of co-design6.11. Future trends7. Effective communication in product development of smart wearable clothing for the active ageing population7.1. Introduction7.2. Communication complexities in product design7.3. Understanding the terminology of different disciplines in product design7.4. Terms with different meanings between specialisms7.5. Visual approaches to developing a common understanding7.6. Bringing different disciplines together in co-design7.7. Using visual communication to help develop a common language in the Design for Ageing Well (DfAW) project7.8. Case study: communication between disciplines7.9. Case study: communication with textile industry designers and manufacturers7.10. Case study: communication with retail7.11. Case study: communication with wearers7.12. Conclusion8. Anatomical and physiological changes with age: implications for apparel design8.1. Introduction8.2. Anatomical and morphological changes8.3. Physiological changes8.4. Factors affecting wearability and unwearability8.5. Conclusions9. Thermoregulation and clothing comfort9.1. Introduction: what is clothing comfort?9.2. Homeostasis and thermoregulation: maintaining a constant body temperature9.3. Human thermoregulatory system9.4. Thermoregulatory responses9.5. Factors affecting thermoregulation9.6. Clothing and thermoregulation: clothing as a barrier between the body and the environment9.7. Moisture management9.8. Thermoregulation and the traditional outdoor layering system: discussion10. Ageing populations: 3D scanning for apparel size and shape10.1. Introduction10.2. Population10.3. Active ageing10.4. Design for all ages10.5. Anthropometrics10.6. Case studies drawing on the sizeUK national sizing survey10.7. Future trendsPart Three. Apparel design requirements for the active ageing population11. The role of wearable electronics in meeting the needs of the active ageing population11.1. Introduction11.2. Current applications and end-users11.3. Communication and entertainment11.4. Comfort and safety in the outdoors11.5. Fitness monitoring, sports performance and health care11.6. Apparel heating systems11.7. Commercial challenges of wearable electronics for active ageing11.8. Implementation considerations11.9. Conclusion12. Overview of the design requirements of the active ageing12.1. Introduction12.2. Defining smart clothes and wearable technology12.3. An introduction to the clothing layering system12.4. The identification of user needs: design fit for purpose12.5. Co-design approach to smart clothing development12.6. The way forward13. Co-design principles and practice: working with the active ageing13.1. Introduction13.2. Capturing user experiences: clothing and technology13.3. Explaining the attributes of the ‘layering system’ to older users13.4. Segmenting types of walking13.5. Creating personas to guide the design process13.6. Creating a range plan to cater for different walking requirements13.7. Future trends13.8. Conclusion14. Public involvement in garment design research14.1. Introduction14.2. Background to public involvement in design research14.3. Planning for public involvement14.4. Designing research studies14.5. Conducting the research14.6. Beyond the study14.7. Additional processes14.8. Conclusion15. The co-design process for apparel for the active ageing population: the participant experience15.1. Introduction15.2. The New Dynamics of Ageing (NDA) programme and the Older People’s Reference Group (OPRG)15.3. Engaging in the Design for Ageing Well project15.4. Training of volunteers in user engagement15.5. Getting to know terminology in the clothing for active ageing sector15.6. Getting to know the textile industry: the International Sporting Goods Trade Fair 2010 (ISPO 2010)15.7. Getting to know the textile retail sector15.8. Getting volunteer participants15.9. The co-design process and outcomes15.10. Conclusions16. Key choices in developing sustainable apparel for the active ageing population16.1. Introduction16.2. Ageing market16.3. Understanding of sustainability16.4. Achieving sustainability through considered design16.5. Conclusion17. Issues and techniques in the inclusive design of apparel for the active ageing population17.1. Background17.2. Mechanisms of engagement17.3. Inclusive design: origins, definitions, and the limits of terminology17.4. Immersive workshops17.5. User forums and interviews17.6. Making the case for inclusive design17.7. ConclusionPart Four. From design to apparel for the active ageing population18. From co-design to design specifications and manufacture of apparel for the active ageing population18.1. Introduction18.2. Design brief to point of sale (POS), the current process18.3. Growing awareness of the ageing market18.4. Co-design – listen, learn, develop, repeat, refine and repeat18.5. Co-design – industry involvement18.6. Getting to store18.7. Conclusion19. What textile fibres are applicable for the layering system for the active ageing?19.1. Introduction19.2. Natural fibres19.3. Synthetic fibres19.4. Synthetic cellulosics19.5. Biofibres19.6. Textiles and fibres for health and well-being19.7. Smart, sensory and adaptive materials19.8. Interactive technologies19.9. Environmental and sustainability concerns19.10. Conclusion19.11. Future trends20. Designing base layers for apparel for the active ageing population: balancing technology and aesthetics20.1. Introduction20.2. Defining technologies20.3. The roles of body and base layers in a clothing system20.4. Designing for the older body shape20.5. Technical and aesthetic design considerations and processes20.6. Manufacturing considerations: materials, methods and costs20.7. Conclusion20.8. Future trends21. Co-design development: design direction for the clothing layering system as a wearable technology platform21.1. Introduction21.2. Creating a hierarchy of emerging key design requirements21.3. Sorting and elaborating the design requirements: form21.4. Co-design prototype design development process21.5. Technical 3D development21.6. Final prototype development21.7. The way forward: design direction to help bring product to market22. Developing a strategy for the effective specification of functional clothing with integrated wearable technology22.1. Introduction22.2. Co-design team22.3. Co-design development process: liaison with end-users22.4. Liaison with technology developers22.5. Liaison with garment developers22.6. Design communication22.7. Example: hybrid design specification22.8. Challenges in the global clothing supply chain22.9. Conclusion: more sustainable garment development22.10. Future trends23. Developing footwear for the active ageing population23.1. Introduction23.2. Footwear requirements for older people23.3. Meeting individual footwear requirements23.4. Researching walking footwear for older people23.5. Discussion: key requirements for walking shoes for older people23.6. Conclusion24. Design for ageing: a focus on China24.1. Introduction24.2. Background to clothing design in China24.3. Introducing Design for Ageing Well in China24.4. Case study: student project24.5. Design direction: merging key findings24.6. Way forward25. Experiences in the design, iterative development and evaluation of a technology-enabled garment for active ageing walkers25.1. Introduction25.2. Background25.3. Examples of research projects in health care monitoring25.4. Research methodology25.5. Prototype iterative developments and evaluations25.6. Discussion25.7. ConclusionsIndex