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Stylists have become increasingly influential in shaping fashion imagery. They have moved from the backstage, as unrecognised players, to the frontstage of fashion, becoming celebrated for their creative work as image makers for magazines, advertising and fashion designers. Yet little is known about the profession, its diverse incarnations and its aesthetic economy. Featuring contributions from leading experts and stylists, this collection is the first to explore the history, meaning and practice of fashion styling through interviews and historic and present-day case studies.Featuring in-depth contributions from prominent fashion scholars, chapters span historical periods, cultural contexts and theoretical frameworks, employing a range of methodologies in the international case studies upon which they’re based. Interspersed with interviews with innovative fashion stylists working today, and drawing on examples from advertising, the catwalk and magazines, this book explores the challenges faced by stylists in a fashion system increasingly shaped by commercial pressures and by growing numbers of collections and seasons.Fashion Stylists is an invaluable resource for students and professionals interested in image-making, the representation of style and fashion, entrepreneurship and the history of fashion professionals.
Ane Lynge-Jorlén is an independent fashion scholar, author of Niche Fashion Magazines and Director of Designers’ Nest, a talent incubator for Nordic fashion graduates.
List of Illustrations List of PlatesNotes on ContributorsAcknowledgements Introduction: Fashion Stylists. History, Meaning and Practice By Ane Lynge-JorlénPart 1: History and Profession of the Stylist Within and Beyond MagazinesChapter 1. Stylist: Etymology and History of a RoleBy Philip ClarkeChapter 2. In the Changing Room: A study of the act of styling before ‘styling’ in Danish fashion, 1900-1965By Marie Riegels MelchiorChapter 3. The Homeless and The Hunchback. Experimental Styling, Assembled Bodies and New Material Aesthetics in Niche Fashion MagazinesBy Ane Lynge-JorlénChapter 4. Examining Uncertainty: An interview with Anders Sølvsten ThomsenBy Susanne MadsenChapter 5. Finding Beauty in the Moment: An interview with Elizabeth Fraser-BellBy Susanne MadsenChapter 6. Styling Unpopular Knowledge: An Interview with Akeem SmithBy Jeppe UgelvigPart 2: Identity, Gender, Ethnicity and Style NarrativesChapter 7. ‘Rethinking Fashion’: Caroline Baker and Nova Magazine 1967- 1975By Alice BeardChapter 8. ‘Looking Good in a Buffalo Stance’: Ray Petri and the Styling of New MasculinitiesBy Shaun ColeChapter 9. Styling ‘90s Hip-Hop, Fashioning Black Futures By Rachel LifterChapter 10. Questioning Fashion’s Parameters: An Interview with Benjamin KirchhoffBy Susanne MadsenChapter 11. Exploring the Female Gaze: An Interview with Roxane Danset By Francesca GranataChapter 12. Building Little Sculptures: An Interview with Vanessa ReidBy Susanne MadsenPart 3: Global Fashion Media and Geographies of Styling PracticesChapter 13. The Stylist’s Trade: Fashion Styling in Milan in an Era of DigitisationBy Paolo VolontéChapter 14. Commercial Styling. An Ethnographic Study on Styling Practices at H&MBy Philip WarkanderChapter 15. Twisting References: An Interview with Lotta VolkovaBy Susanne MadsenChapter 16. Creating Orderly Chaos: An Interview with Naomi ItkesBy Maria Ben SaadIndex
Fashion Stylists is a timely book that fills a gap in modern fashion history and it successfully establishes styling as a worthy and valuable area of research.