Creating the Perfect Form

Janet Wood is a freelance consultant on large exhibitions in major museums and historic properties, including Chatsworth House and the Museum of London. She was previously a fashion designer working with Thea Porter, Monsoon and freelance (1971-90), and a textile conservator with Historic Royal Palaces (1992–2012).

• Introduction1. Assessing the Condition of a Garment2. DatePaintingsCartoonsFashion platesPhotographsNewspapers, magazines and other literary sourcesBooksTechnical developments and dressmaking techniquesFabricsAlterationsMediaSummary3. Garment Cut and its Relationship to UnderwearResearch systemCorset timeline18th century1800 – 18201820 – 18301830 – 18401840 – 18501850 – 18601860 – 18701870 – 18901870 – 18801880 – 18901890 – 19001900 – 19101910 – 19201920s1930s1940s1950sSummary4. Storyboards & Silhouettes How to use storyboards to date a garmentSilhouette timelineHow to relate the construction of a garment to the timeline silhouettesSummary5. MeasurementsDescriptions of the horizontal body measurementsDescriptions of the vertical body measurementsThe importance of the relationship between garment measurementsComparing garment measurements to a body, mannequin or bust formUsing a measurement chartTools for measuringTape measures and their usesMeasuring historic garmentsTips for accurate measuring Summary6. Selecting & Preparing a Mannequin or Bust FormGuidelinesBust form or mannequinPreparing a bust form or mannequinTools for padding mannequins and bust formsApplying polyester waddingBust formMannequinNeedlesStep-by-step process for customizing a bust formTop coversSummary7. Patterns &ToilesThe straight grainLocating the straight grain position on historic garmentsTools for taking a pattern from a garmentThree methods for creating patterns for toilesMaking a pattern for a toile‘Join the dots’ method‘Draping’ methodTissue paper templatesConstructing the toileSummary8. Petticoats, Arms & Finishing TouchesBase petticoatBase petticoat methodNet petticoatsNet petticoat method18th century pannier petticoatTop petticoatsSleeve supports – Arms Summary and finishing touchesConclusionBibliographyGlossaryGarment measuring chartBasic arm patternsPadding diagram

With concise language and simple visual guides, Janet Wood takes practitioners working with textiles and dress on a journey that demystifies and makes accessible effective methods for the interpretation and display of garments. Through appreciation for the fall of a sleeve, the heft of a box pleat and a rigorous analysis of underpinning, Wood deftly and creatively guides the novice (with reminders for the skilled) through garment mounting solutions, bringing clothes to life in a sympathetic way.