Cosmetic Creams

Wilfried Rähse, PhD, was director of process development at Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Düsseldorf, Germany. He worked for 30 years at Henkel, especially in product development, but also in production and environmental technology. After a brief retirement, he joined a cosmetic start-up company (Cosmeceuticals) as a partner for product development.

• Preface xiPrior Publications xiii1 General and Legal Aspects of Cosmetics 11.1 Short Look at the History of Cosmetics 11.2 Definition of Cosmetics 21.3 Typical Cosmetic Products 31.4 Legal Regulations of Cosmetics in Europe 41.5 Label Lettering and Trademark 71.6 Mandatory Registration of Cosmetic Products 111.7 Databases for Ingredients 111.8 Regulations in the United States 151.9 Regulations of the Cosmetics Markets in Asia 161.10 Delimitation of Cosmetic Products 181.11 Learnings 23References 232 Economic Importance of Cosmetics 272.1 Cosmetics Market and Distribution Channels in Germany 272.2 Shopping on the Internet in Germany 302.3 European Cosmetics Markets 312.4 Cosmetics Market in USA 352.5 Cosmetics Market and Distribution Channels in Japan 352.6 Chinese Cosmetics Market 372.7 World Division in Market Regions 382.8 Global Cosmetics Market Size 392.9 Trends for Future Development 452.10 Largest Cosmetics Manufacturers Worldwide 452.11 Top Five Manufacturers 482.12 Learnings 56References 563 Cost Structure of the Cosmetic Products and Their Manufacturers 593.1 Rough Calculation of the Costs 593.1.1 Overview 593.1.2 Development Products 613.1.3 Determination of the Market Price 613.2 Detailed Calculation of the Manufacturing Costs 623.2.1 Costs in the Production 623.2.2 Production Costs Related to Installation and Building 653.2.3 Labor Costs 653.2.4 Energy Costs 713.2.5 Production Cost Dependencies of Capacity, Operation, and Personnel 733.2.6 Raw Material Costs 763.3 Costs in the Companies 793.3.1 Internal Cost Accounting 803.3.2 Direct Costs 813.3.3 Overheads in the Company’s Cost and Performance Accounting 823.4 Figures from the Published Annual Reports 843.4.1 Industry-Dependent Cost Structures of the Companies 843.4.2 Profit and Loss Accounts of Global Cosmetics Companies 863.5 Methods for Pricing 913.5.1 Pricing Depending on the Customer 913.5.2 Cost-Oriented Pricing 923.5.3 Demand-Oriented Pricing 933.5.4 Competition-Oriented Pricing 953.5.5 Influence of the Brand 973.5.6 Summary of Pricing 983.6 Learnings 98References 994 Scientific Descriptions of the Skin 1034.1 Tasks of the Skin 1034.2 Structure of the Skin 1034.3 Concepts for Penetration of the Stratum Corneum 1084.4 Some Experiments on the Penetration of Lipophilic Substances 1144.5 Penetration of Agents into the Skin 1204.6 Gender Differences in the Structure of the Skin 1264.7 Learnings 127References 1275 Composition of Creams for Skin Care 1315.1 General Structure of a Skin Care Cream 1315.2 Modules of a Cream 1325.3 Excipients 1405.3.1 Emulsifier for Macroemulsions 1405.3.2 Emulsifier for Mini (Nano) Emulsions 1495.3.3 Stability of Emulsions 1495.3.4 Adjusting the Cream Consistency 1555.3.5 Preservations 1585.3.6 Antioxidants, Complexing Agents, and Buffer Substances 1635.4 Additives for Color and Fragrance 1675.5 Aids Such as Liposomes for the Introduction of Substances into the Skin 1675.6 Learnings 170References 1716 Proven Active Ingredients for Various Categories of Skin Creams 1756.1 Skin Care 1756.2 Cream Categories for Skin Care 1766.2.1 Cosmetic Creams (Mainstream) 1766.2.2 Natural Cosmetics 1766.2.3 Cosmeceuticals 1826.2.4 Medicines for the Skin 1846.3 Moisture in the Skin 1886.3.1 Natural Moisturizing Factor 1886.3.2 Moisturizing Substances 1916.4 Vitalizing Substances, in Particular Vitamins 1966.5 Nourishing Vegetable Oils for Smoothing the Skin 2016.5.1 Natural Fatty Acids from Vegetable Oils 2036.5.2 Vegetable Oils and Fats in Cosmetic Creams 2056.6 Active Ingredients for Antiaging Creams 2126.7 Essential Oils 2166.8 Extracts from Plant Parts 2196.9 Active Ingredients from the Sea 2236.10 Origin of the Active Ingredients 2256.11 Learnings 225References 2277 Active Ingredients for Special Products 2317.1 Definition of Special Creams 2317.2 Antiacne Creams for Blemished Skin 2317.3 After-Sun Creams and Lotions for Reddened Skin 2367.4 Creams for Baby Skin 2377.5 Prophylaxis at Risk of Pressure Ulcers (Bedsore) 2397.6 Improving the Appearance of the Skin in the Case of Cellulite 2397.7 Chemical Removal of Unwanted Hair (Depilatory Cream) 2417.8 Treatment of Eczema 2427.9 Cream for the Feet and Against Athlete’s Foot 2437.10 Cream for Hands 2447.11 Antiherpes Cream 2457.12 Cream for Removing Thick Horny Layers (Callus) 2467.13 Lotions for Body Care 2477.14 Cream for Itchy Shins 2487.15 Self-tanning Cream 2487.16 Sunscreens (UV Protection) 2497.16.1 Solar Radiation 2497.16.2 Character of UV Rays 2507.16.3 Radiation-Induced Damage in the Skin 2527.16.4 Sunscreen Substances According to the Cosmetics Regulations Worldwide 2547.16.5 Application and Warning Notices 2617.16.6 Measurements for the Determination of Sun Protection 2657.16.7 Recommended Active Ingredients 2687.16.8 Care Creams with Sun Protection 2697.17 Comment on Cosmeceuticals 2717.18 Learnings 271References 2728 Proposals for the Formulation of Creams 2758.1 General Remarks 2758.2 Moisturizers 2768.3 Vitalizing Creams 2778.4 Creams with Smoothing Properties 2828.5 Antiaging Creams 2848.6 Acne Creams 2878.7 After Sun Creams/Lotions 2888.8 Baby Cream 2898.9 Bedsore Cream 2958.10 Cellulite Cream 2958.11 Foot Care Cream Against Athlete’s Foot 3008.12 Hand Cream 3008.13 Callus Removal Cream 3008.14 Body Lotion 3018.15 Eye Area Formulation with Sun Protection 3048.16 Sunscreen Lotion 3079 Perfumes 3099.1 Importance of the Perfume for Cosmetic Creams 3099.2 History of Perfume Oils 3109.3 Perfume Composition and Markets 3129.4 Extraction of Fragrances from Plants 3159.5 Chemical Composition of Natural Fragrances 3199.6 Possibilities in Product Design of Perfume Oils 3279.7 Personal Care and Other Products 3299.8 Safety 3309.9 Learnings 332References 33310 Production of Cosmetic Creams 33510.1 Method 33510.2 Stirring and Homogenizing Tools 33710.3 Laboratory Equipment and Pilot Plant 34210.4 Batch Production 34510.5 Continuous Production 35010.6 Scale-up 35010.7 Mini-Emulsions 35510.8 Bottles and Filling Lines 36110.9 Learnings 366References 36811 Regulations and Guidelines for the Execution of Hygienic Productions 37111.1 Good Manufacturing Practice Rules for the Manufacture of Cosmetics 37111.2 EHEDG Guidelines for the Construction of the Facility 37911.3 Materials for the Equipment of Cosmetic Plants 38311.3.1 Problem 38311.3.2 Choice of Material 38411.3.3 Stainless Steel 38511.3.4 Smoothing the Metal Surfaces 38711.4 Cleaning-in-Place 39211.5 Learnings 396References 39612 Assessment of the Quality of Cosmetic Creams 39912.1 Options for Quality Evaluation 39912.2 Microbial Checks 40012.3 Specifying the Quality of Cosmetic Creams by Physical Measurements 40312.3.1 Probes and Devices 40312.3.2 Moisture and Sebum 40312.3.3 Firmness and Elasticity 40612.3.4 Wrinkles 40812.3.5 Gloss and Color 40912.3.6 Support of Advertising Claims 40912.4 Example of a Cream Test by Customers 41012.5 Learnings 414References 41513 Product Information File (P.I.F.) 41713.1 Provisions of the Cosmetics Regulation 41713.2 Requirements for the Product Safety Report According to the Cosmetics Regulation 41713.3 Safety Data Sheet 42013.4 Structure of the P.I.F. 42213.4.1 Product Identification and Description 42213.4.2 Composition of the Cosmetic Cream 42213.4.3 Toxicological Profile 42413.4.4 Production Instruction 42613.4.5 Analysis Report of the Produced Cream 42613.4.6 Cream Exposure to the Skin 42913.4.7 Safety Consideration for Babies and Children 43413.5 Example for a P.I.F. (Body Lotion) 43713.6 Learnings 452References 453Appendix A Formulations 455Appendix B MSDS Niacinamide 465Index 475